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Cobbles and Robbers 
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Cobbles and Robbers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 12, 2006
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Description 

The 2nd route from the right on the crag. Start just above a ledge, the first bolt is high. Continue up, most of the holds go right of the smoothish face.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors. Anchors are a bit funky.



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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Quite sustained on small-for-El-Rito holds. If you feel pumped going through the middle, just go for it. It gets a lot easier with good rests near the top.
Funky, homemade anchor hangers but they look bomber.

By tim naylor
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

good middle section on sweet pockets, two ways to do crux. go right or strait up, same grade .11b? 3 stars

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Aug 9, 2010

I hit a bomber rest pocket right in the middle where the going is the toughest. Unfortunately it was full of water. Made sticking the next hold a little tricky.

By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 19, 2010

Not Eds either
FA Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97

By Brototype
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

As of 7/13/13 the oval on the right anchor is essentially impossible to open with one hand and won't close on its own. I was going to replace the 'biner, but sadly those funky anchors made it impossible without taking the entire hanger off. Might be time to get some legitimate hangers on there.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Re: changing out the anchor hangers...I think this is the route I tried to change the anchors on a few years ago but the bolts spin in the holes so the nuts won't come off. But that shouldn't stop folks from trying again...my memory could be fuzzy. But if that's the case, drilling new holes may be necessary.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Wow Jason. If the bolts are spinning in the holes, then they are no longer in tension and the only thing holding you when you lower/rap is the leverage of the bolt in the hole. In short, those anchors really need to be replaced before someone gets hurt. Punch new holes if you need to, but get some new anchors in! (I will try to keep an eye on comments here and if it still hasn't been done by the next time I am in NM, I will bring my drill....could be a while though, so don't count on it happening soon).

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Hey John, my impression of the situation is the holes weren't cleaned the best and the nuts on the threads are locked up so the wedge bolts rotate in the hole when one tries to loosen or tighten the nuts. But if the bolts are pulled on, the wedge still wedges. But I didn't have a crowbar or other device to pull on the bolt/hangers. I don't recall exactly what I tried but I was unable to get the bolts or hangers out/off. But I wasn't sketched out by the situation. Still, an anchor upgrade would be great.