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Bill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agnostic T,TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Cheatah T,TR 
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 
Dark Corner, The T,TR 
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 
Dogleg T,TR 
Escalation T,TR 
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 
Ignominy T,TR 
Lysurgic Ledge T 
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 
Prophet's Honor T,TR 
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 
Sour Queen TR 
Talk to the Animals TR 
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 

Coatimundi Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 10,287
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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Franck Greaux leading Coetimundi

Description 

Coatimundi Crack is a fine line up the southwest side of Bill's Buttress. Find the crack/inside corner behind the large Oak tree. Climb using the crack and face holds to the left. This climb contains plenty of "Thank God" holds that are found with each reach of your hand.

The Coatimundi, also known as the White-nosed Coati, is diurnal, living both on the ground and in the trees. This member of the racoon family is omnivorous, feeding on fruits, invertebrates, and other small animals. They feed by using their long noses, poking them under rocks and and into crevices, and using their long claws to dig holes or tear apart rotting logs.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Coatimundi Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coatimundi Crack
BETA PHOTO: Coatimundi Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 8 of 10 hour lead marathon. 4-29-12.
Pitch 8 of 10 hour lead marathon. 4-29-12.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coat...
Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walnutz showing the start of Coatimundi Crack
BETA PHOTO: Walnutz showing the start of Coatimundi Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike starts up
Mike starts up
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on lead. Andy on stellar belay.
Tim on lead. Andy on stellar belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fuzzy clipping gear.
Fuzzy clipping gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads and his new personal challenge.
Rhoads and his new personal challenge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicholas Dehaan on the lead of Coatimundi Crack.
Nicholas Dehaan on the lead of Coatimundi Crack.

Comments on Coatimundi Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2016
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jul 22, 2005

Lots of great gear, but don't hang out too long in the crux!

There are three alternate finishes: (5.6) Up the crack and left behind the pillar, (5.8) up the pillar, starting on its left side, and (5.7) cut right around the pillar and pull a lieback up into the beefy crack.
By Ian Schmit
Oct 10, 2006

A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 10, 2006

James Schroeder and I did an interesting variation to Coatimundi. Climb the crack/corner until it is possible to step left. Climb/walk a bit left to a nice belay ledge by a big tree. Belay here.

Next, climb right off the belay, and continue heading right and up. With a bit of routefinding and a couple 5.7ish moves, it is possible to traverse the entire buttress, and to top out near the top of of Cheetah. This is a long pitch.

We were tempted to name this pitch "The Traverse of the Gods," but that name was already taken.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007

There are now two fixed cams in the bulge!

This route can be sewn up with nuts and hexes.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb rocks!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The crux move of this climb down low feels harder than any move on Peter's Project (which I led 20 minutes before this). The crux looks like it'd be easy but it's not... This is a classic climb for sure.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is definitely old school 5.6! Much harder than pushmi pull ya crack. This would likely be 5.7 or 5.8 at a more "New School" crag. But the crux is very well protected and its a great climb! This may be king among devils lake sandbags!
By Tradoholic
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Go try The Pooper, "Most sandbagged at the lake" has been said more than once.
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 29, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This thing always feels hard for 5.6. Everytime I'm on it, I try to figure out a sequence that is both dignified and 5.6. I have thus far failed to find a sequence that would qualify as either - let alone both. Coatimundi is significantly harder than False Alarm Jam, its neighbor to the left, which is commonly called 5.7. Coatimundi feels about as hard as Grand Inquisitor, its neighbor to the right, which is also given 5.7 (although Coatimundi protects much better).
By Seth Jones
From: New Lenox, IL
Sep 14, 2015

Is this really 125'? Wanting to top rope it but only got a 70m rope.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 14, 2015

I routinely use a 60m rope on this: lead, and set the TR so that the masterpoint is 2-3 feet below the rim? Requires a little care to be lowered on that, but a 70 should make this really easy.

This is one part of DL where you should always knot the belayer's end of the rope.
By Seth Jones
From: New Lenox, IL
Sep 16, 2015

Thanks Doug!
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 20, 2016

I agree with James - in fact, I did those two back to back and made the same comparison. Coatimundi looks like it should be so much easier than it is, but that crux down low is pretty desperate. As long as you have decent crack technique, False Alarm goes much easier IMO.

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