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Bill's Buttress
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Coatimundi Crack 
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Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man 
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Coatimundi Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,875
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 2, 2002
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Franck Greaux leading Coetimundi

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Description 

Coatimundi Crack is a fine line up the southwest side of Bill's Buttress. Find the crack/inside corner behind the large Oak tree. Climb using the crack and face holds to the left. This climb contains plenty of "Thank God" holds that are found with each reach of your hand.

The Coatimundi, also known as the White-nosed Coati, is diurnal, living both on the ground and in the trees. This member of the racoon family is omnivorous, feeding on fruits, invertebrates, and other small animals. They feed by using their long noses, poking them under rocks and and into crevices, and using their long claws to dig holes or tear apart rotting logs.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Coatimundi Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Coatimundi Crack
BETA PHOTO: Coatimundi Crack
Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coatimundi Crack.
Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coat...
Mike starts up
Mike starts up
Rhoads and his new personal challenge.
Rhoads and his new personal challenge.
Tim on lead. Andy on stellar belay.
Tim on lead. Andy on stellar belay.
Pitch 8 of 10 hour lead marathon. 4-29-12.
Pitch 8 of 10 hour lead marathon. 4-29-12.
Comments on Coatimundi Crack Add Comment
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jul 22, 2005

Lots of great gear, but don't hang out too long in the crux!

There are three alternate finishes: (5.6) Up the crack and left behind the pillar, (5.8) up the pillar, starting on its left side, and (5.7) cut right around the pillar and pull a lieback up into the beefy crack.

By Ian Schmit
Oct 10, 2006

A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 10, 2006

James Schroeder and I did an interesting variation to Coatimundi. Climb the crack/corner until it is possible to step left. Climb/walk a bit left to a nice belay ledge by a big tree. Belay here.

Next, climb right off the belay, and continue heading right and up. With a bit of routefinding and a couple 5.7ish moves, it is possible to traverse the entire buttress, and to top out near the top of of Cheetah. This is a long pitch.

We were tempted to name this pitch "The Traverse of the Gods," but that name was already taken.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007

There are now two fixed cams in the bulge!

This route can be sewn up with nuts and hexes.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This climb rocks!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The crux move of this climb down low feels harder than any move on Peter's Project (which I led 20 minutes before this). The crux looks like it'd be easy but it's not... This is a classic climb for sure.

By Josh Knapp
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is definitely old school 5.6! Much harder than pushmi pull ya crack. This would likely be 5.7 or 5.8 at a more "New School" crag. But the crux is very well protected and its a great climb! This may be king among devils lake sandbags!

By Tradoholic
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Go try The Pooper, "Most sandbagged at the lake" has been said more than once.