Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dihedral Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carlos 
Coarse and Buggy 
Couldn't Wait 
Happy Happy, Joy Joy 
How 'bout It? 
Limp Wristed Faggot 
Slabulous 
Sowsuckle, The 

Coarse and Buggy 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: Bill Mikus and Bob Dominick, December 1970, FFA: Spencer Lennard, February 1978
Page Views: 12,766
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 5, 2002
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Coarse and buggy

Description 

This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree and I would have to say that it's the coolest single pitch I've done at the Tree.

Locate the stunning left-facing dihedral which faces the road...you can't miss it. A toprope can be set up top without too much trouble, which means the climb is likely to be swarmed by a TR-ing mob from time to time.

The climb can either be started by climbing easily in from the boulder on the left or via a direct start (5.10). The crux (5.11-) comes right away with in a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof the caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.

Walk off to the right, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.


Protection 

Nuts, including RPs. Cams up to #2 camalot. A black alien or equivalent is helpful.



Photos of Coarse and Buggy Slideshow Add Photo
clipping another micronut on the crux section
clipping another micronut on the crux section
Chris Trudeau climbing Coarse and Buggy like it's nothin'! <br />
Chris Trudeau climbing Coarse and Buggy like it's ...
putting in small wires at the crux
putting in small wires at the crux
Michelle on Course & Buggy, enjoying the security of a hand jam after the thin crux stems.
Michelle on Course & Buggy, enjoying the security ...
Stemming into the burly upper crux.
Stemming into the burly upper crux.
What sending Coarse and Buggy feels like.
What sending Coarse and Buggy feels like.
Hanging belay.
Hanging belay.
Jen at the stemming crux on Coarse and Buggy.
Jen at the stemming crux on Coarse and Buggy.
Chris on Coarse And Buggy
Chris on Coarse And Buggy
At the second crux.
At the second crux.
From top to bottom on a cold winter day.
BETA PHOTO: From top to bottom on a cold winter day.
pulling the final crux
pulling the final crux
At the upper curx of Coarse And Buggy
At the upper curx of Coarse And Buggy
Good friend, Eric, on the layback crux at the top.  Thank goodness I got to TR this one!  Whew!
Good friend, Eric, on the layback crux at the top....
Climbing Course and Buggy <br />Photo by Darshan Ahluwalia <br /> <br />
Climbing Course and Buggy
Photo by Darshan Ahluwal...
AHHH! The first bomber jams.
AHHH! The first bomber jams.
Getting up to 1st crux of the climb.
Getting up to 1st crux of the climb.
Smearing through the crux.
Smearing through the crux.
Chris stems out on Coarse And Buggy
Chris stems out on Coarse And Buggy
just another shot of the crux
just another shot of the crux
Comments on Coarse and Buggy Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 8, 2012
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The direct start is superior and definitely recommended. Take care when placing pro at the start of the lieback section as there is a section of hollow-sounding rock regularly used to set gear. Also, if much gear is placed in the middle section be mindful of rope drag. Once I watched a leader pitch off the upper crux and as the rope came taut several pieces in the middle popped. 4 out of 5 stars.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Did the hand-traverse start. The smooth dihedral section was delicate and technical and the crux in my opinion, thin fingers would certainly help. Middle section was a relief but I remember the pump encroaching as I hit the grand finale. Power very helpful here.

Purity, Line, position, technicality, varied technique

By Randy
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

On the FFA of this route, the entire climb was rife with loose rock, but was still obviously a great route. The crux section (the stemming down low) had one fairly large hold on the right side of the corner. It was probably an inch wide and a few inches long, but composed of layer after layer of potato chip rock (as was much of the right wall). Near the top layback section, I cleaned a large stopper, by pulling it through the ball-bearing filled crack!

I did this route most recently about a year ago; it is a testiment to what traffic can do to totally clean the rock of loose flakes and ball-bearings. A classic.

By phil broscovak
Feb 24, 2004

I led this route not long after it was established as a free climb and it was just like Randy described. I remember it being stunning but spooky lead. I am actually glad to hear it has been "groomed" into civility. I am planning a trip out there this March and have always wanted to go back to this cool route. Unfortunately, time, and other thieves, have tarnished the stainless steel of my shrinking family jewels. I dont think I would want to lead it like it was now that my juvenile juices have turned to geriatric jelly.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Can be set up, as we did, as a TR. The middle crux takes more time than the top. My buddy labeled this as one of the best in JTree.

By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Feb 16, 2005

Does anyone know if the FFA was done as a direct start or from the traverse in?

By Randy
Feb 1, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

FFA was done via the traverse in from left.

By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Feb 17, 2006

Just finished 2 weeks in the park and this route was my favorite. Such an aesthetic line and the rock is not rough at all. I used BD microstoppers primarily for the crux, as well as a very small BD stopper and a #0 tcu down low. A blue alien was too large. All the gear is there and it can be very safely led. Get a good rest before the end crux!

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The overhanging off-fingers lieback at the top was the crux for me. No problem with the thin, stemming corner.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

What a line!

The stemming corner is pretty straightforward (if you can stem :). BD micronuts, a green Alien, and purple and green C3 sewed it up. C3s go in the top of the stem section like a knife through butter! The middle section is cruiser thin jams with big rests - including a no hands stem rest.

The finishing crux isn't that hard, but don't get suckered into a rush layback like I did! Instead square up to the crack and work the crack (and dodgy feet) until you can get the positive crimps that allow you to hit the finishing rail. A purple camalot (#0.5) protects the final crux perfectly.

Truly one of the best lines in the park.

By Spencer Lennard
Oct 7, 2007

Well as Randy noted, the route was extremely loose before and on the first free ascent. Though I top-roped the route (without falling) the weekend before the FFA, I was quite unprepared for the experience leading the thing.

My protection consisted entirely of standard 70's era hexes and stoppers, and at the crux I must have stuffed 4 to 6 pieces in close proximity. Randy also remembered that he removed one of my best pieces by pulling it with a downward force. I suspect that had I fallen, pieces would have pulled resulting in a long fall or a even a groundfall. I came back and led the route in the mid 80's with cams and it was still scary, more due to my own loss of cajones (now that I'm past age 19) than quality of protection or difficulty.

By Frost
Dec 7, 2007

I took a 40 foot screamer on this route from the top crux. I blew two crappy pieces. and fell from the top lie-back holds to below the little roof half way up the route. I don't know if anyone cares, but you might want to place a .5 camalot or a red alien at that part instead of a blindly placed yellow alien (just FYI).

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 23, 2008

still a bit "coarse and buggy" down low on the right hand wall. crux takes a orange TCU perfectly.

awesome route!

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 13, 2009

Super fun, with a technical stemming crux down low. Bring several tiny nuts & microcams for this part. The pumpy section up high gets easier if you have the good beta.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Rowdy!! One of the best routes in the park. Done via the Direct Start this climb throws a bit of everything at ya. Black Alien and BD #4 stopper protect the stemmming corner and a Red Alien at the top crux helps keep you sane.

By jbones
From: prescott, az
Dec 17, 2009

Spectacular Route! Its Like a latter in that beautiful corner. That last .5 is tough to place under the bulge, followed by one of the cooler moves in Jtree.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Mar 22, 2011

There is still a bit of exfoliation on the direct start, but I don't think it's loose enough to justify avoiding like back in the day unless you're a bit light ;).

By Neil Roessler
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I was fortunate enough to climb this route the only time I ever visited Joshua Tree with Mike Reardon feeding me pounds and pounds of Beta. A good man, great memory and excellent 5.11 climb.

By Kevin Volkening
Feb 8, 2012

been thinking a lot about this route as of late . . . one of my favorites in J-Tree