Coalpit Connection 

I don't think you were the first to climb this. I know I climbed the hand crack to the right ( the one w/ the dead tree hanging out of it) of Pudgy Gumbies numerous times to pre-place gear on Pudgy ( I am a wimp). And I am sure the upper pitches have been climbed too. Sorry no disrespect, I think your facts might be a bit muddled.

When James and I did this climb we are sure the upper pitches have been climbed before, but the finger/hand crack leading to them seemed to have seen no previous action. The crack was packed full of dirt and mud. James had to take out his nut tool and scrape out dirt for each jam and gear placement. Maybe it was climbed before, it sure didn't appear so.

Nut tool or not if we are talking about the hand crack to the right of Pudgy Gumbies, the one with the big dead tree hanging on by a few threads. It has been climbed before.

What exactly do you want Phil Fell and James Garrett to do? Phil already said that maybe it was climbed before, but it didn't appear so. If you climbed it before them, cool. great. neat. who cares? Let's all keep climbing it, and it will stay clean, or let's abandon it for another ten years so that two more people can head up there and have a great fun adventure. Either way, things are good.

I agree. Lots of routes got climbed around here years ago and never reported, then they fade into obscurity. Back when people didn't want to place bolts, they searched for the cracks, and were skilled at leading them clean....then, if it wasn't super classic, probably didn't see much action, and became overgrown and the route was "lost to the ages". A friend and I climbed the big east facing dihedral on the Pawn years ago, but never told anyone, or POSTED it....if someone else goes up there, maybe they will have a same adventure(if you do, take a hammer and some pins!!). I hope so..cause it was wild! Didn't seem like it had ever been climbed, but we were very reluctant to call it a new route. Point is...people have been climbing in this canyon for 40 years.....bound to be some repeats called FA's. Oh well, climb clean, climb bold, have fun.

Ok so if he said it had been climbed before, why claim an FA? peace.

AC, did you even read my post???

You all make trolling so easy....

I agree with Phil. Sorry to make claims of glory which may be unfounded...I always thought Pudgy gumbies was to the left on the steeper stuff...in fact, there was a fixed piece there. If the dirty crack had been climbed befre, it wa never recorded and I have never heard of a name for it....what might be a recommend for future recording of this route would to note it as "first recorded ascent". And the name, well "Unknown" has never been on my list of cool route names. But maybe this post will spark other closet readers out there who wish to reveal when it was climbed and what they called it? Fun route at any rate.

Hey Coward

Quit dissing Jimmy G.He was probably putting up routes when you were in diapers.Trust me, he's not reporting the FA for glory's sake, ya wanker.He's merely saying, hey, check out this crack I cleaned for all you lazy fucks - it's not bad!Plus, you don't have proof that it's ever been climbed before, so STFU.

All I have to say is, Thanks, Jimmy!How 'bout we finally quit talking ';bout it at work and get out for a day this fall (once my burn's healed, that is).

Regardless of who did this first, or when it was originally done, there are some cool sections on this line. My suggestions would be to A) Consider approaching via Endless Torment rather than the first 2 pitches of Precious Lost (which are not memorable). Either way, you have some bush whacking. And B) set up your belay directly below the finger crack rather than at the "nut and pin" anchor. That way, you don't have to worry about the rope running over the sharp arete. Pitches 3 and 4 really are quite good, especially the left facing corner on pitch 4.

And one more thing, if someone were to bring a small saw and cut out the gnarly, rotting, dead tree "guarding" the beginning of the finger crack, it would improve this line greatly! In which case DON'T belay right below the crack!