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 ADVANCED
Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)
Select Route:
Area 51 T 
Bee Line Highway S 
Coal Room T 
Code Rainbow T,S 
Double O Slab T 
Hair of the Dog, The T 
Hard Luck and Bad Times S 
La Facada Norte T 
Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 
Otherworld S 
Roadside Traverse T 
Short but Squeezed T 
Short but Sweet T 
Slipstream Dihedral T,S 
Ten Second High S 
Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 

Coal Room 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S.M.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: Steve McCorkel on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: All of the slabs uphill from the 0.6 mile mark, Bi...

Description 

Start below the left side of the lower slab as for the dihedral which forms the left margin of the lower slab. Climb up to the base of the dihedral, up a little, then traverse left past a bolt; climb straight up to the acute, large, black dihedral above. Anchors are above the dihedral to the right.

Location 

In the Narrows a short way past the Beige Siphon Tube, at the base of the lowest of three slabs below the 007 crack. Park below the slabs in a paved pull-out, near a large boulder with an arete.

Protection 

Small wire at the base of the dihedral, just around to the right; Ball Nut, or very small cam after the bolt (reachy and difficult to see placement); assortment of cams for the black dihedral.


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By allen simons
Nov 24, 2006

Curious, did you place a bolt in the dihedral? And, is this left of the route "Code Rainbow"?. I would venture to guess that this was led a long time ago. I followed this pitch behind Ned Sparks back in '93 or so. Does it end at the anchors at the top of the slab? allen
By Steve McCorkel
Nov 24, 2006

No bolt in the dihedral; it is left of Code Rainbow. I have climbed the dihedral you are referring to - it's really pretty nice and needs to be added to the site; climbs at about 5.9. Coal Room starts in this dihedral for a short ways to a small ledge, then makes an easy traverse left for maybe ten feet to a bolt. The route continues left and up to another dihedral. It ends at another set of anchors, left of the ones at the top of the slab.
By allen simons
Nov 26, 2006

OK, sounds different. when you traverse out left does it take you up the second slab then or are you just around the corner of the dihedral?? Allen
By Steve McCorkel
Nov 26, 2006

The route is just around the corner of the dihedral about twenty feet left and ends at the base of the second slab. My idea was to maybe continue the route on the second slab as a single pitch.
By allen simons
Nov 28, 2006

Ok, Hey, I went up yesterday and finished another route I just put up that is 100 yards to the left. I rapped down and saw Coal Room. I too have wanted to put up something on that second slab. I have top roped the center (10 ish) and the wandering crack system (8 ish) in the past and yesterday looked at the left edge also. It may even take a fourth route on the right side. Was there a portion you had in mind to bolt? If you let me know, I'll stay off it and pick something else. Also, let me know if you climbed the newer route I put up recently. I'm curious about the ratings. allen
By Steve McCorkel
Dec 10, 2006

This route The Coal Room is really only a one-star route.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 24, 2009

Ya sounds great Allen, you should try to squeeze three more routes in between. We could even give them alternate ratings like 5.8+/5.11a. LOl don't you think you've bolted plenty up there. You're not the only one that climbs the BTC.
By allen simons
Jun 30, 2009

Not sure what you're asking Scott. My previous comment is 3 years old. I added 6 lines after that, I am most likley done putting up lines in that area. Al