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Coal Pit Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angering The Angered T 
Coalpit Connection T 
Direct North Face T 
DoggyStyle T 
House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Coal Pit Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5685, -111.73617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 61,955
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 31, 2005
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the buttress in between the Triangle Wall and Pentapitch. It has lots of black roofs.

Getting There 

After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).

Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.

Hike up the trail (like you're going to the Pentapitch Area).
But, at the bottom of the talus, punch it straight up; this will put you at the bottom of Stiffler's Mom.

Or, for a less steep approach, go to Pentapitch and walk east along the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Coal Pit Buttress:
Stuck a Flute in My   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Organization for the Organized   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 310'   
Sumatra   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Precious Lost   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 650'   
DoggyStyle   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
Stiffler's Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   
Shizznit   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
One Time at Band Camp   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stifflers Stiffy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
House of Cards   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 7 pitches, 650'   
Refugees From Reality   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   
Browse More Classics in Coal Pit Buttress

Featured Route For Coal Pit Buttress
Topo

Refugees From Reality 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Coal Pit Buttress
Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof. P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+. P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up t...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Coal Pit Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By bsmoot
Jun 11, 2007
Tony:

Why are you removing old bolts? You're erasing history.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 12, 2007
BSmoot,
I really know that TC has some baggage and what not, especially here on this site. But,I think your question is just more fuel for that fire...it seems challenging, to me anyway. Maybe a more effective question would be, 'TC, yeah, now that I think about it...I do know a little about the fixed hardware up there eventhough its not in any of the books...let's get together and see whats up before you pull anything else...I care about that history!"

or something to that affect.

I'm not trying to be a smart ass or a soul supporter for TC, I just believe there is a better solution...TC is gonna be out there doing his thing...in fact, he'll probably be out there more than anyone else...and last time I was up there in that area with him, we did pull some old hardware...let me tell you...the only logical explanation we could come up with as to why it was located where it was...is because back in the hey day when you all were scurrying all over the wasatch looking for hard lines...some misc. hardware was fixed to allow better exploration access (e.g. we found an old, unsafe bolt on top of a ledge wehre snakepit goes near. the only thing we could think of was it was used to check out the blank slab below in hopes of finding that 'hardass' climb that it seems y'all were searching for 20 years ago...)

again, i do not intend to be a smartass or a dick (with the elder joke)...i've told you before, i respect history too, and the work that you do! while not totally on the same page as TC, i think he is generally within the rules and guidelines on his decisions--at least in this present day and age! ha! that's a jab at you TC...we'll talk about it...out on the rock!
By bsmoot
Jun 15, 2007
Glen:

My question and comment are IMO very valid, If you want to interpret my post as "challenging" you're free to do so. When someone pulls out old bolts like that your robbing other climbers of important historical information.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 15, 2007
BSmoot: you are absolutely correct! i hope we are o.k. disagreeing about what you intended to communicate and what I alone have interpreted from your post--i really do not mean to insult or disregard your input. it's weird, since you may consider this as a fuss, but i agree with you...no one should remove any 'important climber or non-climber history anchors' (pun intended) from our backyard!

what was/is the important climber history behind the bolt that was located above what i know as the 2-bolt slab of snakepit? (let's go out and i will show you exactly what/where)

i repeat...errr...we could not come up with any 'logical' reasons as to the location or purpose of this bolt--other than as an access bolt to look at the blank slab below...when that blank slab only revealed boring 5.8 to 5.9 (maybe harder if you only go straight up), whoever placed it moved on since it was not the wasatch gem they were hoping for...

since Tony, or Luke, or Tyler, or me, or anyone else putting new energy into that area cannot find any concrete recorded important history (about FA's or early exploration, etc.) besides what is available from this community, the past and present guidebooks, etc. then...

we now have a very interesting climbing area that offers beginners and intermediates a fun week's worth of climbing...

when i moved here 7 years ago...there really was only Pentapitch/surroundings and some non-descript weed wackers that seemed more nostalgic then anything else (i.e. not worth it)...sure, i've come to learn that it really ALL has been climbed before...and i mean all of it...

how often did/do you climb over there (between the east shoulder of coalpit--aka the tree route and vicinity--all the way west to endless torment and pentatpitch?)

since you been here a real long time, i expect the answer to this rhetoric to be "i've climbed over there hundreds of times..." i'd like to assume you know what i really mean:

Yes, let's not remove important historical evidence of our climbing roots.
However, there seems to be a new "movement" or "consciousness" if you will...and some of our predecessor's mistakes/experiments are gonna need to take a back seat...cause there are alot more minds contributing to this new movement then there were back when these "lone" bolts and anchors were installed...

If Tony or anyone else were to remove hardware from an actual worthy route...then...let's retaliate...
By tenesmus
Jun 19, 2007
Tony said (and I totally agree),

"I don't see any point in leaving emergency rappel anchors in place either."

cough, cough, snake pit... cough cough.

Not trying to add fuel to the fire either. I'm just saying that Tony told me he put in a bolted belay to bail in the rain off that route.

My point is not to flame you. We've all had to bail at one time or another and sometimes exploratory rappell anchors should be deleted - even if its a bolt next to a crack.
By tenesmus
Jun 20, 2007
very true.
By tenesmus
Jun 21, 2007
love how tc deleted his posts above. never undersood that.
By tim naylor
Nov 9, 2010
maybe rap anchor for skiers or ice climbers?