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Coal Creek Boulders

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Roadside Boulders 
Spider Wall 
Wall aka Breakfast Nook, The 

Coal Creek Boulders  

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Administrators: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 28, 2008
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Nicky Dyal on Orange Smoothie, V2, Coal Creek Boul...


The Coal Creek boulders offer fun climbing in a beautiful setting with an easy approach and a good range of grades. The boulders appear to be a Dakota sandstone (or something similar) in contrast to the cobblestone-featured sandstone of the Redstone boulders. The landings have taken some work but are generally safe. While this area is mostly inaccessible during the winter months, the boulders sit on a south-facing slope so the snow melts quickly in the spring and the rock is dry soon after a rainstorm. Also, the area sits at about 8,500' so the area can offer welcome relief to the summer heat and the tight confines of the valley walls can offer welcome shade in the afternoon on the hottest days.

Getting There 

Drive to the old mining town of Redstone. Just south of the south entrance to Redstone is Coal Basin Road, heading west from CO Highway 133. Look for old brick coke ovens and an old, large piece of mining machinery just before the road when driving from Carbondale. Drive up this road for several miles, first passing some tall red cliffs before coming to a large parking area/trailhead on your right after a cattle guard. Park just past the cattle guard and hike back down the road (east) to the large talus slope where the boulders lie.

10 or 20 yards from the cattle guard a faint trail, occasionally marked with cairns, heads up to the most popular boulders. It is also possible to head up the hill immediately after crossing the cattle guard, staying close to the fence, until a faint trail contours east along the slope to The Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 11.2 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Coal Creek Boulders
The long version (V4) project of The Chossy Traverse, and the short version (V1).

The Chossy Traverse (Long)" Project" V4 6B  CO : Carbondale Area : ... : Spider Wall
This long version starts on the far left side of the lower tier of the wall on some ledges. (You can sit start just below the ledges.) You stand up and reach high and stem out right to a great foot hold, then you grab a two finger crimp with your left. There used to be a huge flake you could palm on, and in the process of making the route, the flake broke. It forced us to have to try to do the lower crack that starts to die out and has very crimpy finger locks. I personally think that the line w...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Coal Creek Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
More fun.
More fun.
At the top of the boulderfield near the Kwik-E Mart. Start with a matching undercling pinch and move up.
At the top of the boulderfield near the Kwik-E Mar...
Another happy boulder; it has some loose pieces but is fun.
Another happy boulder; it has some loose pieces bu...

Comments on Coal Creek Boulders Add Comment
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By Hoboken
Jul 31, 2011
Um, not to be rude, but do you have any more actual info on the bouldering to post for this area. It would be welcome due to the fact that so little info exists. This place seems to be quality.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 31, 2011
I never got around to posting anything else, because there are great descriptions, topos and photos in the latest Rifle/Western Colorado guidebook.
By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
Hey Mike, do you know anything about the wall a quarter mile before the parking lot, by the creek? Jason and I spent all day there putting up a traverse along the bottom of the wall. Not finished but it's great rock after you clean up the loose stuff. Has potential for more routes bouldering or sport.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 6, 2011
That wall has been eyed over the years and Carlo Traversi soloed the righthand line above the creek for a Rock & Ice photo shoot a couple years ago. I'm guessing the face has been bouldered on a bit. We always wondered if there were any worthy roped lines on it. Looked kinda short but could be a good diversion. Thanks for posting beta on that stuff. I saw some of Jason's stuff from the other day, looks cool!
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 6, 2011
I've looked at that wall up in the woods a couple times for sport routes. Some of the rock is quite flaky and hollow, which could be an issue, but if it all came together OK there could probably be a half dozen or so routes.
By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 11, 2011
For sure, it's definitely chossy rock on that wall, but I threw up an alright topo for the boulders up in the boulderfeield for those without the book. Fun area.