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|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
Pitch 1: Climb up 20' to a small ledge, then diagonal right 15' to a small ledge and horizontal at an overhang. From this spot you can either take the direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?); or traverse left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.
Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks
pine-tree rap station. You'll want two ropes to get to the ground from here.
Below the left side of a block that is sitting on a ledge 10 feet off the ground, 40 feet to the left of Welcome to the Gunks
Standard Gunks rack; a blue C4 camalot #3 is helpful on 5.6 traverse.