Co-op  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Jim McCarthy and Dave Bernays, 1954 FFA Art Gran, 1960s. Submitted By:  matt matera on Jul 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb up 20' to a small ledge, then diagonal right 15' to a small ledge and horizontal at an overhang. From this spot you can either take the direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?); or traverse left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.

Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks pine-tree rap station. You'll want two ropes to get to the ground from here.

Location 

Below the left side of a block that is sitting on a ledge 10 feet off the ground, 40 feet to the left of Welcome to the Gunks.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack; a blue C4 camalot #3 is helpful on 5.6 traverse.