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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension 
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Clyncke Punched a Hippy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber, Aug. 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Aug 19, 2011
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  • Description 

    Clyncke (pronounced 'Klinky') is the self-proclaimed oldest living resident in Eldo. He has the largest hands of anyone I've ever met - rancher hands that make a climber's hands look dainty. He would pack a punch.

    Start about 10 feet left of The Dispensary. Climb some loose rock (5.8) with adequate gear to good gear below the roof. The crux is getting established in the small left facing dihedral over the roof. Foot holds are licheny here, but the climbing is cool. After the dihedral ends, look for footholds that lead left traversing a few feet above the lip of the roof. Eventually you undercling a thin flake that takes you further left. From the end of the undercling, go straight up to a right-facing corner with good gear. Then continue to a ledge that you can traverse right to the tree atop The Dispensary.


    Location 

    Start just left of The Dispensary in an obvious, left-facing dihedral. Rap down off the tree or continue up Le Toit, Rosy..., etc.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack to 2.5", emphasis on small cams. There are good 0.5-1.5" cams below the roof. A large RP or Lowe Ball to protect the crux, difficult to place.



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