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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Clyncke Punched a Hippy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber, Aug. 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Aug 19, 2011

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  • Description 

    Clyncke (pronounced 'Klinky') is the self-proclaimed oldest living resident in Eldo. He has the largest hands of anyone I've ever met - rancher hands that make a climber's hands look dainty. He would pack a punch.

    Start about 10 feet left of The Dispensary. Climb some loose rock (5.8) with adequate gear to good gear below the roof. The crux is getting established in the small left facing dihedral over the roof. Foot holds are licheny here, but the climbing is cool. After the dihedral ends, look for footholds that lead left traversing a few feet above the lip of the roof. Eventually you undercling a thin flake that takes you further left. From the end of the undercling, go straight up to a right-facing corner with good gear. Then continue to a ledge that you can traverse right to the tree atop The Dispensary.


    Location 

    Start just left of The Dispensary in an obvious, left-facing dihedral. Rap down off the tree or continue up Le Toit, Rosy..., etc.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack to 2.5", emphasis on small cams. There are good 0.5-1.5" cams below the roof. A large RP or Lowe Ball to protect the crux, difficult to place.



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