Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
Arugula, Arugula 
Barbershop Duet 
Big Easy, The 
Boats from Cuba 
Bonnie and Clyde 
Bourbon Street 
Brendan's Bitches 
Cereal Killer 
Climb and Punishment 
Clusterphobia 
Far From Feral 
Fish Corner  
Flying Squirrel 
Green Mile 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b 
Juicy Fingers 
Maltese Falcon, The 
Maria's Variation 
Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Mister Meaner 
open project 
Rainbow 
Scene of the Crime 
Sesame Street 
Slack 
Toxic Gumbo 
White Buttress, The 

Clusterphobia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 10/05
Page Views: 3,307
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Wonderful, but short jug haul capped by easy climb...

Description 

This is another retrobolted route that is now seeing traffic. Originally done on sketchy gear, it wasn't even in the guidebook. Though not as classic as its neighbor to the left (Armed and Dangerous 5.10b), it is well worth doing and though it's a little squeezed in (as the name suggests) it will thin the crowds at this popular spot.

Climb the line of weakness to the right of Armed and Dangerous, following Metamorphosis (5.8+), then heading straight up the steep wall above to the old anchors of Armed and Dangerous. Big moves on good holds for the most part and nice clean falls.


Location 

Just right of Armed and Dangerous 5.10b.


Protection 

  • bolts to anchor.



Photos of Clusterphobia Slideshow Add Photo
Clusterphobia: August 2012
Clusterphobia: August 2012
Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Art Mooney on clusterphobia...
Art Mooney on clusterphobia...
Comments on Clusterphobia Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2013
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

Not retroed, to my knowledge, though it most likely was top roped on since A&D was put in, as it runs directly to the old anchors.

Somewhat chossy, but fun steep flakes and pockets. ..a bit height dependent

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I took a bit of an unexpected whipper on this climb Saturday...
A foothold about the size of Nalgene exploded off the cliff while I was using it to pull the upper lip, I don't think it changes the climb at all as it was off right a bit an into the rotten rock, apparently.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I think this is the best route on the wall. It's much better than Armed and Dangerous, IMO. It also felt hard for 5.10d. The move at the start of the steep part requires 5.11 burl.

By S. Neoh
Nov 12, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Does anyone know if the missing 1st bolt this climb shares with Metamorphosis has been replaced, or not?

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 12, 2009

Does anyone know if the missing 1st bolt this climb shares with Metamorphosis has been replaced, or not?----> new fat glue in

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

FA Mark Sprague 10/05

By Michael Buchanan
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

If your tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 22, 2013

How does the steep part of this compare to, say, Bullwinkle goes Ballistic?

By S. Neoh
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

For most people, significantly harder. For me (a shortie), the crux of this route requires a good deal of core strength and precise footwork.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 11, 2013

Finally got on this recently and really enjoyed it. It's a shame the 1st half of the route isn't more memorable like the first half of A+D or else the entire climb would be a classic, IMO.

By S. Neoh
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

It should be possible to start off A&D then link into Clusterphobia, hitting the crux of both enroute. But use your best judgement and rope management.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 12, 2013

That's the plan for next time! Thanks!