||Trad, Aid, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade V
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C2 [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Sean Isaac and Andreas Taylor, 1997. FFA: Jonathan Copp and Tim O'Neill, 2001.|
|Page Views: ||810|
|Submitted By: ||nelsras on Aug 11, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Bustle Tower through the fog in the distance.
On the Southeast face of Bustle tower. 12 pitches of quality granite up one of the most aesthetic towers in the cirque. Named after route topo drawn on a girly magazine of the same name found in a waterproof case at the bivy site in Fairy Meadows. Left of the SE Face Route. Follows left facing dihedrals over a big drippy roof on pitch six. Goes free at mid 5.11, if pitch six isn't too wet. Do it in a day, or fix the first few pitches then fire it the next day.
(2-3) sets of cams from #00 to 5"
(2) sets nuts
Lots of long runners
(2) 60m ropes
It goes clean easily, no pins needed.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Club International from George Bells webs...