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Are There Bolts Up There? T 
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Black Gold S 
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Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
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Winterfest S 

Clown Loach (temporary name) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ken Trout & Jim Jensen, 1973
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The line follows the black intrusion.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There is a line between Guppy and Crackside Direct that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on Crackside, too).

You can start this line either from the Guppy pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of Crackside and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in Crackside Direct. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for Guppy.

Rappel 115'.

Location 

This is between Guppy and Crackside Direct and follows a black intrusion band.

Protection 

Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.


Photos of Clown Loach (temporary name) Slideshow Add Photo
Dave lower down on the pitch.
Dave lower down on the pitch.
Dave higher on the pitch.
Dave higher on the pitch.

Comments on Clown Loach (temporary name) Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 26, 2012

Cool, Leo! I haven't explored it, other than looking at it on rappel, but definitely looks a lot more direct than 'Crackside Direct' and a cool feature. I think I was nervous about a loose block halfway on it. Is there one? There is also may be potential for a cool short slabby route to the right of Crackside.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 26, 2012

Darren, there were definitely things I was cautious about pulling outward on, since I had just yanked off a flake at the top of Winterfest. Still, nothing moved except for a few obviously loose rocks that I threw off. I agree that there is potential to the right of Crackside.