Clown Loach (temporary name)
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The line follows the black intrusion.
There is a line between Guppy
and Crackside Direct
that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on Crackside
You can start this line either from the Guppy
pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of Crackside
and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in Crackside Direct
. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for Guppy
Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.
Dave lower down on the pitch.
Dave higher on the pitch.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 26, 2012
Cool, Leo! I haven't explored it, other than looking at it on rappel, but definitely looks a lot more direct than 'Crackside Direct' and a cool feature. I think I was nervous about a loose block halfway on it. Is there one? There is also may be potential for a cool short slabby route to the right of Crackside.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 26, 2012
Darren, there were definitely things I was cautious about pulling outward on, since I had just yanked off a flake at the top of Winterfest. Still, nothing moved except for a few obviously loose rocks that I threw off. I agree that there is potential to the right of Crackside.