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West traverse approach pitch, "bowel incontin...
This is an intriguing line which looks like a mellow romp up a hanging slab. However, due to the approach it is hard to assess this one until you are right on it. It winds up being a full value "sport" climb best done with a bit of gear and a propensity not to fall. Find this one on the West side of North Dinosaur Egg.
The approach can take a bit of figuring out. You can approach this via the first pitch of Rehatch
, 5.5, on the E face of North Dinosaur Egg from the gully between the first & second strata of Dinosaur Mt. via the Bear Canyon trail. It can also be approached from the gully between the second & third strata up the gully East of Stonehenge. However, this requires traverse an approach pitch either around the East or West side of the lower South chunk of North Dinosaur Egg. Either of these starts with a scramble up a wide crack at a huge ole eye bolt on the West side of North Dinosaur Egg. If you use the East traverse, follow a 5.5 line of wavy rock around curving left and into the upper chimney of Rehatch
. Expect rope drag. If you try the West traverse (perhaps it could be named "Bowel Incontinence"), follow an awkward, line of huecos with questionable pro of cams in huecos.
When you finally get to the climb, you will find it is surprisingly vertical to start with a rising, left-angling, exposed, traverse above a large overhang (hence the name?). Thus, despite relatively closely-spaced bolts, it is probably best not to fall until past the 4th bolt (especially on lead). Follow sporadic pebbles (somewhat reminiscent of the better-quality P1 of Velvet Elvis
) and edges. The crux is probably between the second & third bolts. Some holds are friable, and the route is still cleaning up (we broke off at least 4 holds). Once past the 5 bolts, the difficulty & angle eases significantly, but it becomes a bit run out. Continue angling left and find an overlap with cracks for small cams. At about 120-130 feet out, you reach a bolt and pin anchor on top of a ridge.
Rappel West 120 feet to the ground. You can make it to 4th class terrain with a single 60m rope. There may be other anchors, but we didn't find any better ones.
Expect full value! Yee haw!
5 bolts, 2-3 small cams (yellow & orange Aliens...), ?a small wire.
BETA PHOTO: From the gully between 2nd & 3rd strata looking No...
By Doug Redosh
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hard for 10c. Scary to even follow due to potential for falling over the overhang to the left. The picture of me is actually on the loose approach pitch (Leo called it "Bowel Incontinence"). I placed 2 crummy cams in the huecos, then one fell out as I moved past. I backed off, someone else can claim the FA!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Still hard, and still crumbling. At the crux, there was an obvious cobble that popped out, with sand and no chalk still in the hole, a recent occurrence I concluded. This was a thought that gave me pause when moving up on the cobbles on moves thereafter, something hitherto taken for granted.
I would have been happier if I had taken a few pieces of trad gear for the finish- 2-3.5" cams, so as to protect the 20 meter runout to the summit.
The rap to the west is of variable length. You could get down with even a 50-meter rope if you fought your way left on rap to land uphill.