|West Face/ Southwest Arete
Cloud Man Got Angry
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll|
|Season: ||Late Fall to Early Spring|
|Page Views: ||800|
|Submitted By: ||greg k on Apr 18, 2011|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
bandana girl belaying from bottom of pitch 3.
Enjoyable route parallels Born of Water for the first 4 pitches before wending and winding its way to the top on easier terrain.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Snake through trees and cross "crap" (according to the medical community) before finding good pro, followed by 2 bolts and finally fun finger crack. Belay at cactus infested ledge (+- 120ft)
Pitch 2 (5.10a): Turn roof on good pro, continue up and left to 1 bolt before angling back right to 2 bolt belay (+- 80ft)
Pitch 3 (5.8+): Fun climbing up 9 bolts to 2nd 2 bolt belay (+- 200ft)
Pitch 4 (5.10a): More bolt (10) climbing on harder face to 3rd 2 bolt belay at right side of I'itoi's balcony (+- 200ft)
Pitch 5 (scramble): Move belay to left end of I'itoi's balcony (+- 80ft)
Pitch 6 (5.7): Follow left angling dike clipping 3 bolts, running out last 100 ft. 70m rope or 20ft of simul-climbing gets you to oak tree belay and top of I'itoi Dance, pitch 6 (+- 220ft) [NB: Strassman's topo indicates that this pitch would dump you out well above I'itoi Dance pitch 6; we did not find that to be the case...]
Pitch 7 (5.10): Last engaging pitch of I'itoi Dance (4 bolts). Sling trees at ledge and belay (+- 80ft)
Pitch 8 (5.7): Up and right on mediocre gear and sometimes questionable rock (+- 120ft)
Use 70 m rope to combine pitches 1 & 2, gain peace of mind on (our) pitch 6, and coalesce pitches 7 & 8
FA's description: books.google.com/books?id=ko-AaPcnIesC&pg=PA209&lpg=PA209&dq>>>
More or less in middle of Babo's southwest face. 30ft right (east) of Born of Water and just left of bolted slab (Watcher of the Skies). Someone was kind enough to leave purple sling dangling from 1st bolt to demarcate route.
nuts and cams
12 alpine draws
|Comments on Cloud Man Got Angry
|By Clay Mansfield|
Mar 17, 2013
Fun climbing in a spectacular place. Rack can be pared down to set of stoppers and singles of cams up to BD #2 or maybe even BD #1, and ~12 draws.