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Just right of Crescent Crack the climb is a face with 2 bolted routes that share anchors. Closet Lycra is the right-most. The seam is the obvious weakness with which this climb starts. This, however, provides a decision making process. Do you put in the brass which will interfere with your fingterips, or not. Going from bolt 1 to 2 is the crux, however the traverse to bolt 3 still holds your attention finished off with a fun mantle on the arete. From here the climb eases considerably.
4 draws for the route, and possibly 1 brass nut in a seam for your 1st piece of gear. There are chains at the top. If you want to make it a sport route, skip the brass down low. Not like it's going to do much good anyway.
Rusty utilizing that wonderful chickenhead
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
BURLY! I could name a few slabs at 11a/b that feel quite a bit easier than this one... There might not be any individual move harder than 10d but from the time you leave the ground to the time you clip the 3rd bolt the climbing is hard and very sustained. Sticking the whole sequence on lead requires a lot of things to go according to plan, which makes it a lot more satisfying that bagging some one move wonder.
Watch the bottom which is getting quite polished and get a solid spot if you eschew the brass placement (which won't keep you off the deck anyway). A long draw on the 2nd bolt keeps the moves out right from becoming a tension traverse...
Aug 31, 2010
Super good, keep yo shiz together before the first bolt.
|By James Reynolds|
Nov 7, 2013
Jeff Cobabe and I put this route in back in the late 80's. We named it Closet Lycra because lycra was IN! We had a few friends who owned lycra but were a little embarrassed to be seen wearing it in public. We never considered placing a nut at the beginning because you'll just hit the ground without a good spotter/belayer anyway.