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 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Rode T 
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream On T 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Impossible Dream T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
WOSL T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

Closer to the Heart 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Pelot
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Aug 18, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Side view of start

Description 

Mostly consistent featureless run-out 5.9 climbing with occasionally thinner moves.

Pitch 1(5.9)- Depending on where you start you can probably find a 'peace of mind' .5 cam placement before the climb begins in earnest. Clip two bolts and then place a piece in the horizontal before the two bolt anchor 130'.

Finish on Yardarm for two more pitches

Location 

First bolted route left of No Alternative on Tree ledge

Protection 

quick draws and singles cams of .75 and down might add some piece of mind


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

Paul Pelot did the "fa", although I've been told it used to be a free solo route prior to that ascent. Can't attest to the accuracy of that though.

Also, this line used to have a seperate finish between yardarm and no alt. Don't remember if it had a bolt though.
By Johnny O
From: Wilkesboro, NC
Aug 29, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is indeed still a bolt on the correct second pitch and the bolt can be seen above some small overlaps from the flake shared with Yardarm. The second pitch goes slightly right off of the belay flake and stays to the left of No Alternative. There is another double bolted belay at the top of the second pitch, then no protection the rest of the way. Not that it is really needed. You can finish by heading straight up to the belay rings at the top, to the left of the tree island.

This route seems to get a bad rap for being run-out but it really isn't that bad. This is actually a really fun route. The bolts are right where you need them.
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