|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||russellHOBART on Aug 18, 2012|
|Comments on Closer to the Heart||Add Comment|
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From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013
Paul Pelot did the "fa", although I've been told it used to be a free solo route prior to that ascent. Can't attest to the accuracy of that though.
Also, this line used to have a seperate finish between yardarm and no alt. Don't remember if it had a bolt though.
By Johnny O
From: Wilkesboro, NC
Aug 29, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There is indeed still a bolt on the correct second pitch and the bolt can be seen above some small overlaps from the flake shared with Yardarm. The second pitch goes slightly right off of the belay flake and stays to the left of No Alternative. There is another double bolted belay at the top of the second pitch, then no protection the rest of the way. Not that it is really needed. You can finish by heading straight up to the belay rings at the top, to the left of the tree island.
This route seems to get a bad rap for being run-out but it really isn't that bad. This is actually a really fun route. The bolts are right where you need them.