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Stone Mountain South Face
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Closer to the Heart 
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Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Closer to the Heart 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Pelot
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Aug 18, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Side view of start
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mostly consistent featureless run-out 5.9 climbing with occasionally thinner moves.

Pitch 1(5.9)- Depending on where you start you can probably find a 'peace of mind' .5 cam placement before the climb begins in earnest. Clip two bolts and then place a piece in the horizontal before the two bolt anchor 130'.

Finish on Yardarm for two more pitches


Location 

First bolted route left of No Alternative on Tree ledge


Protection 

quick draws and singles cams of .75 and down might add some piece of mind



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

Paul Pelot did the "fa", although I've been told it used to be a free solo route prior to that ascent. Can't attest to the accuracy of that though.

Also, this line used to have a seperate finish between yardarm and no alt. Don't remember if it had a bolt though.

By Phil S
From: Bethlehem, NH
Mar 24, 2013

I was always curious about the existence of the 2nd pitch. I led off the first belay on what I thought was the 2nd pitch of Yardarm but I could only find 1 bolt above some overlaps and for the life of me, couldn't find the second. Looking back, I think I didn't go far enough left and the large amount of flaky rock I encountered seem to match up with some descriptions of the route from rockclimbing.com.