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 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

Closer to the Heart 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Pelot
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Aug 18, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Side view of start

Description 

Mostly consistent featureless run-out 5.9 climbing with occasionally thinner moves.

Pitch 1(5.9)- Depending on where you start you can probably find a 'peace of mind' .5 cam placement before the climb begins in earnest. Clip two bolts and then place a piece in the horizontal before the two bolt anchor 130'.

Finish on Yardarm for two more pitches


Location 

First bolted route left of No Alternative on Tree ledge


Protection 

quick draws and singles cams of .75 and down might add some piece of mind



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

Paul Pelot did the "fa", although I've been told it used to be a free solo route prior to that ascent. Can't attest to the accuracy of that though.

Also, this line used to have a seperate finish between yardarm and no alt. Don't remember if it had a bolt though.

By Phil S
From: Bethlehem, NH
Mar 24, 2013

I was always curious about the existence of the 2nd pitch. I led off the first belay on what I thought was the 2nd pitch of Yardarm but I could only find 1 bolt above some overlaps and for the life of me, couldn't find the second. Looking back, I think I didn't go far enough left and the large amount of flaky rock I encountered seem to match up with some descriptions of the route from rockclimbing.com.