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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Close To the Edge 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Briggs / Hare 1995
Page Views: 1,429
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jul 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steep face and slab climbing with postive and sharp edges throughout. A bit reachy in spots and will test your footwork and some unconventional body English.

The third bolt may seem far away, but there is a comfortable clipping stance, and the fall is long but safe. The climbing and angle will ease off once you pass this bolt. Ends at two bolt anchor on the traversing ledge of P1 of South Face Direct.

Looks like this route could be a pretty cool start to Corinthian Vine.

Location 

The obvious, three bolt route left of Boot Lead, and twenty feet right of Gill Crack.

Protection 

3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.


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By Luke Childers
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Short but fun. It felt more like 12c to me and took a few burns to send. I thought the real trick of the route was getting past the 1st bolt!!! The rest seemed more straightforward to me... nice on a cool, winter day.