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Castle Rock
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West Face, Direct Start 

Close To the Edge 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Briggs / Hare 1995
Page Views: 1,347
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jul 21, 2007
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Description 

Steep face and slab climbing with postive and sharp edges throughout. A bit reachy in spots and will test your footwork and some unconventional body English.

The third bolt may seem far away, but there is a comfortable clipping stance, and the fall is long but safe. The climbing and angle will ease off once you pass this bolt. Ends at two bolt anchor on the traversing ledge of P1 of South Face Direct.

Looks like this route could be a pretty cool start to Corinthian Vine.


Location 

The obvious, three bolt route left of Boot Lead, and twenty feet right of Gill Crack.


Protection 

3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.



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By Luke Childers
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Short but fun. It felt more like 12c to me and took a few burns to send. I thought the real trick of the route was getting past the 1st bolt!!! The rest seemed more straightforward to me... nice on a cool, winter day.