Type: Trad
FA: Jim Knight and Bruce Roghaar 1977
Page Views: 2,362 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the chimney/offwidth system to the right of the classic Gargoyle pitch. This route is really fun. Start with steps and edges, then enjoy the double cracks. Arm Bars with the left and finger locks and jams with the right. Climb to an ancient bolt then the business begins. Either stuff yourself through the super tight squeeze chimney straight up (5.9), or go out the bulge via the offwidth (5.11).End the pitch at a belay with one good and one brand new bolt. Eat your Wheaties for the Offwidth or don't eat anything for two days for the Squeeze.

Location Suggest change

High up the Fin Gully on the Gargoyle Wall. Look for the only wide system with a wide roof/bulge section about 75' up.

Protection Suggest change

One single set of Cams, at least one monster cam #6 Camalot or equivalent. Double on the monster cams would be nice but are not mandatory. Slings and quickdraws. Stopper are not needed.

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