|Land that Time Forgot
This is THE Sheeprock testpiece. It's time for me to let this one go. As far as I know, this has not seen a complete free ascent. The closest I have come is about 5.12 A0, with some French freeing of the roof pitch and headwall. This well-protected line follows the most direct and some of the steepest features to the summit of Sheeprock. The last pitch cuts right through center of the headwall. This also provides the only rap line down the North Face from the summit.
Start on the far left side of the North side, at the bivy site. 4th class 30' to the cozy perch.
P1: "Gateway". 10+. This pitch also provides access to trad routes SolArian and Black Sheep. Slab and sequential face climbing warm-up. Pass a chain anchor at 100 feet and continue on easier ledgy climbing to an excellent 3 bolt belay ledge. 170' 16 bolts. Use a few long runners in spots.
P2: "Black Sheep" dihedral. 11+. Insecure step into the right facing dihedral and tricky crux pulling around at the 3rd bolt. This sets the stage and establishes you onto the Cloak. Once around the corner, finish on easier slab and face to an exposed and uncomfortable hanging 3 bolt belay. 65' 8 bolts.
P3: Roof Pitch. 12+. Tighten up your shoes. Sustained steep edging and smears separated by 2 roofs. The first and smaller of the two being an improbable balance boulder problem at, say, V5. Once over the roof, sequential face climbing follows a leaning rounded arete to near-impossible friction slab below a five-foot roof. Paw your way over this powerful roof and enjoy a comfortable tiered 3 bolt belay. Probably the biggest challenge on this relentless pitch is keeping your concentration sharp and your calves from burning! Be smart with some longer draws/runners as the route wanders a bit. 115', 16 bolts.
P4: Headwall. 12. Soak up the exposure. This follows an unbelievable natural weakness in an otherwise impasse. Follow the first few clips on big holds to a ledge rest. Continue on steep and vertical sustained face climbing with small knobs, edges, and sloping stances to where the angle finally breaks. The crux is about midway with a reachy sequence of crimps. Chase several more clips on 5.10 to a great ledge 30' below the summit. 125', 16 bolts.
P5: 5th class (optional) cruise past two bolts to summit anchors and enjoy the view. 30'. Congratulations.
Rap the route with two 60m ropes (3 raps). Best rap is from stations 4 to 3, 3 to 1, 1 to Perch. Although its possible with 2 x 70s to stretch the rap from 4 to 2, and 2 to Perch (although pulling ropes is more of a workout this way).
This is on the far left side of Land Time Forgot, between T19 and Ankar Gate.
About 16 quickdraws of various lengths including a few runners.
XSGrip or Onyx shoe rubber. ;)
2 x 60m ropes to rap.
Also good idea to bring some comfy shoes to belay in, especially at the hanging belay at the end of P2.
BETA PHOTO: The left side. The Cloak takes direct line up to t...
Darren on the FA of the headwall of the Cloak, Pit...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch. (Going down).
Aug 3, 2008
Awesome route, awesome place, great exposure, too much fun. would be really hard to onsight. Kudos to Darren for the really hard work.
Dude, give a rest to the Cloudveil Jacket, hang it on the wall of the livingroom or something,
Dani from the other Hemisphere
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 4, 2008
Dani, great to hear from you! Can't part with the Cloudveil, it's falling apart, but it's almost 10 years old!