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 ADVANCED
Onyx Summit Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big BM T 
Clip Art S 
Cliptomania S 
Freak on a Leash S 
Lost on the Horizon T 
Nothing Could be Finer than to be in a Vagina in the Morning S 
Opiate S 
Palm Pilot S 

Cliptomania 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, August 1999
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This route starts just right of Opiate and climbs the right arete of the main pillar directly from the bottom, joining with Clip Art at the fourth bolt.

Climb an overhanging right-facing flake to it's end and then bust out left (crux) to a distant edge. Note: this section is somewhat reachy and those without the necessary wingspan will likely find this section to be more difficult than stated. Once past the crux and established on the arete proper, climb engaging moves past three bolts on impeccable stone to a stance below the final two bolts, and then head up and left along the slightly overhung arete (5.10) to shared anchors with Clip Art.

Location 

Found between Opiate and Clip Art on the main pillar.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off


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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A good route with a distinct crux. The finishing arete is excellent - if you don't want to do the hard start move right to Clip Art, and enjoy the finish.
By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Apr 1, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Did not feel like 5.12 to me, (maybe because I'm short and was able to get a high right foot), but definitely a great crux with a fun (10-) arete finish.
By clustiere
Aug 5, 2012

A fun route, the crux was more like .11b/c. Enjoy!!
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Without route beta, this would be a very difficult onsight. Took a while to figure out the big move left (the crux move). The arete above is simply excellent rock and great movement. Definitely recommend.