Clippidy Doodah...  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  nbrown on Jun 3, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a really fun and fairly sustained new route that yielded only one gear placement on the whole thing. It also required a good bit of cleaning but turned out to be of very high quality, and is a must do for someone looking for more of a challenge than just ordinary slab climbing or grooving. There are quite a few crystal knobs on all 3 pitches that make for interesting climbing. Most of the route is solid 5.10, with exception of the short crux on pitch 2 that is 11.

Note: this route is easily rappelled with a single 60 m rope. The first pitch diagonals, but the rap is only 80' or so.

P-1 Climb up and right following a line of 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10+ 120'

P-2 Move out left and climb past bolts on featured steeper rock that gradually gets harder, culminating in a hard 11c move. From the crux the climbing eases up past 2 more bolt to a bolt anchor. 5.11c 100'

P-3 Move left and climb past 3 bolts on featured rock to the one and only gear protected spot. Continue up and right on the ramp past 3 bolts to a ledge and one more bolt and then the bolt anchor. 5.10+/11 95'

Location 

Just right of Wild Wild West and just left of Dillard Arete.

Protection 

Almost exclusively bolted except for one #9 stopper and a possible #0 TCU on P-3 (both in the same spot)