Clippers and Saws  5.10+

1,476 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Sergio P on Oct 2, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A real beauty!

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1. Per b hof: within 3/4 of mile from the West Bear Gulch trail is closed due to the birds. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30’ splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20’ of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors.

Location 

To find this stellar route follow the trail to the base of Tanner Dome. There will be a large boulder on your right. Follow the wall to the left (west) until you see a large, left-facing dihedral with the splitter finger crack 40’ up.

Protection 

0.3 Camalot - 3.5 Camalot. Doubles or even triple 0.4 size. Gray Alien is the ideal, but 0.4 Camalot works fine. Leave the nuts on the ground. I used a 60m rope.