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The Monument
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Chinese Handcuffs 
Clipper 
Cornucopia 
Desert Gold 
Handbone 
Lizard Locks 
Madcap Laughs, The 
Seduction Line 
Step Into The Squeezer 
West Edge Lane 

Clipper 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward. 1987
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Dec 22, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Clipper climbs the right facing corner system. Won...

Description 

To the right of Desert Gold are two obvious right and left facing corner systems. The thin, right facing corner is Clipper. The thin, left facing corner system is Violent Stems (5.11d). Begin by climbing up chossy rock to where the thin corner starts. Do some fun liebacking up to a good stance and place your gear. Crank out a couple of stem/mantle moves up to the bolt and clip that thing. Continue up the thinning corner with increasingly difficult moves to a wide pod. Once here place that 4" cam you lugged up there and then power lieback your way up and over the overhang to the 1st pitch anchors of Desert Gold. A very fun, surprisingly well protected and high quality route.


Protection 

Single Rack to 4"



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By Josh Janes
Dec 22, 2011

The protection bolt on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in December 2011. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.

By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

If you are less than 5'6 you may have to get a little creative to place that BD 4 after that nice new bolt (Thanks ASCA). You'll want that #4 to make the next few moves.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 30, 2011

Totally. I was stretched out placing that cam and the moves above it would certainly warrant its necessity. However, a small BD nut will sink nicely after the bolt and before the #4.

By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

You are totally right! I remember passing that potential placement and wishing I'd carried my wires with me. Serves me right.