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 ADVANCED
Little Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Man 
Arete T,TR 
Clingon 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Jaws 
Knee Catcher T,TR 
One-move Wonder 
Pat's Slab 
Tooth Arete 
Tooth Slab 
Trade Problem 
Undercling Right T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Clingon 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Just before you get to the Little Twin Owls (after the large Jaws boulder and the obvious, crystalline "tooth" boulder), identify a boulder on the right with a right-angling slash (to the left is a small pinnacle). The slash is very slick and insecure. It leads to a no-hands stance from which one can downclimb or continue to the top of the boulder via a scary 5.8 crack/slab.

Protection 

Possibly a pad and spotter, though not necessary...the fall tends to be unexpected and your feet are very near your hands.


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By Mitch Musci
Nov 2, 2010

An excellent, physical problem with tricky footwork. The more you can commit to the layback and get your feet high, the more success you will have. I don't know why Charles posted this and Jaws both as V0s, but Clingon feels about V4, as does Jaws if you combine the traverse and the top out.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 5, 2010

I actually didn't rate these V0. Back in the early days of the site, I think it was possible to rate them with the B-scale, and I vaguely remember rating them B1 (I didn't "get" the V-scale back then and in some ways still don't, but I understand it well enough to know that these are not V0!). Someone must have changed the rating to the V-scale during one of the upgrades.

Edit: I just changed my rating of this and Jaws to V3 which I believe are their consensus ratings in the guides, though I could be wrong.