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 ADVANCED
The Pier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost but not Quite S 
Basement S 
Cling Free S 
Destiny S 
Drug Sniffing Pot-Bellied Pig S 
False Alarm S 
Geometric Progression S 
How Do You Like them Pineapples? S 
Long Walk Off Of a Short Pier S 
Pier Pressure S 
Poco Owes Me a Concert S 
Seventh Hour S 
Thirsty Quail S 
Under the Boardwalk S 

Cling Free 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leo Henson
Season: spring & fall
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

The crux is getting over the intial bulge and the pump factor at the top. If you decline to take the hand jam rest in the middle you could probably make the climb 12.a.

Location 

One climb right of Under the Boardwalk.

Protection 

bolts


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Having been on this several times, including recently- this thing is at least .12a/b, probably .12b. I hear tale that if you are shorter, the bottom section is significantly easier (i believe this given how scrunched up i was)- but its a HARD route. Far harder than every other .12a i've done or gotten on in the park.

Also, bring a long stick clip (12') to stick clip the second bolt- clipping it mid-crux is very difficult.
By Justin Streit
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I agree with Jon. No chance is this 5.11d. Felt like the hardest 5.12a I've been on (though my list is short). Definitely seems like it would be easier for a shorter person than me, but still worth trying if you're tall.
By yann gauthier
May 23, 2014

i agree 12ab