This line climbs Climb and Punishment for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left. The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming. It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above Finger Grinder, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the Glenda's Chimney rappel.
The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via Climb and Punishment. Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger. Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade. [Perhaps it is] comparable to Max Factor but less sustained.
Gear from 3" to tips. [It is useful] to have extra 1-3 inch gear for a belay anchor over the lip.
Recommended rack with grain of salt: doubles #3-0.5 BD + 2x #1 TCU + (belay) one extra #2-#4 Camalot + 1-2" pieces.
Oct 12, 2005
On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had.
|By P Takeda|
Aug 19, 2007
Climbs of Passion Exit now has a two bolt anchor on slab above the end of the crack. This anchor allows a lower-off (90 feet). Hopefuly this will make the route a bit more popular as it is high quality and could clean up a bit. And yes, its a bargain for Vedauwoo 5.11c...
Jul 27, 2010
Although not very sustained, the crux moves on this climb feel harder to me than the crux moves on Max Factor, Eagle Brand, Bordwalk, or 4th of July Crack. And be careful lowering off of the anchors - I used up every foot of a 60m rope.