By Doug Shepherd
From Fort Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2007
| BLACK DIAMOND TURBO EXPRESS ICE SCREWS
Black Diamond redesigned their ice screws for 2007-2008; I have used my new Turbo Express screws since the start of this season and I think the redesign definitely improved the screws. Are they better than the competitors? That is a matter of personal preference, I happen to think so.
New BD Turbo Express ice screws
Here is what BD says is different:
“Without question, these are the easiest and fastest placing ice screws to ever sink their way into ice. This year we improved our renowned Express by redesigning the tooth geometry for easier starts, adding larger crank knobs that are easier to grab and augmenting the hanger with a second clip-in point for belay organization. Quick to bite and easy to crank in, the Express screw features a tapered tube where the teeth cut a hole just larger than the tube itself, for less friction and faster placements. The foldable speed-drive knob is color-coded for quick length identification and offers uninterrupted 360-degree motion. New stainless steel hangers are lighter than previous models, won’t rust and reduce melt-out on sunny routes. The Express is built in five lengths to accommodate a variety of ice conditions. All sizes of screws are now CE-certified. Patented.”
So what things struck me as different?
Let’s start with the teeth:
Old Turbo Express Teeth
New Turbo Express Teeth
As you can see, the tooth design is much more aggressive now. I have not had the pleasure of grinding them into rock yet, so I will have to update the review once I’ve done that and seen the carnage first hand. My impression is that these teeth, being more aggressive will dull faster when striking rock.
The handle is also different:
Old Turbo Express Handle
New Turbo Express Handle
The changes are that the metal is different, the knob is larger, and you can clip two carabiners into the screw at once. I love this feature for anchor, as you can set a screw, clip into it, and not have to unclip to finish setting the anchor up. Petzl-Charlet used to be the only company with this feature on their screws, so I always enjoyed using their screws for anchors.
One of things that Black Diamond claims they have done with the redesign is to create an ice screw which displaces less ice as you drive it in to create a stronger placement. I have seen the demo of this in a block of perfect ice and the idea makes me happy, but this is very difficult to test in a real world situation. They do place faster (starting and cranking in) than the old Turbo Express screws, but I cannot verify or disprove their claim about less displacement of ice=stronger placements.
How is real world performance? These things rock!
They start easier than my old BD screws. At least as fast to start and place as the Grivel 360 screws in my opinion, which I thought was the fastest screw on the market to place. Combined with the multiple clip-in points, this screw takes what is great about the Petzl Laser (ease of use), the Grivel 360 (extremely easy to start), and the old Turbo Express (durability and ease of racking) and duplicates or improves on each idea.
Multiple partners have all commented on how much easier the new Turbo Express screws are to start, place, and remove. They are an all-around improvement over the old model. Only time and extended use will tell how durable they are compared to the old model and competing products.
Specifications:
Cost - $56.95
- However, you already can find cosmetic seconds at many stores, including Wilderness Exchange Unlimited in Denver and BD’s website.
Disclosure: I bought these BD screws myself. |  |
By Stymingersfink
Dec 16, 2007
| Doug Shepherd wrote: BLACK DIAMOND TURBO EXPRESS ICE SCREWS Black Diamond redesigned their ice screws for 2007-2008; I have used my new Turbo Express screws since the start of this season and I think the redesign definitely improved the screws.
I've had them out for a few pitches so far, and have been surprised at how much faster/easier they are to place over my old Turbo Express screws. Are they the best screw they've come up with so far?
Hell yeah, IMHO.
Better hanger, better spinner, faster placing, easier placing... where's it gonna stop?
I slammed one of my partner's 16cm screws into the rock behind some thinner-than-it-appeared ice on Stairway just yesterday. It burred one of the teeth, but it was easily filed out later that afternoon at the truck with no problems. :)
Disclosure: They're my partner's screws, but I make half the placements. | |
By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Dec 16, 2007
| Doug,
Thanks for posting up the review.
Cheers
John | |
|
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