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Gear Review - ARC'TERYX WST Harnesses

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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2009
How I Send

I can't believe no one has mentioned the durability (or lack there of) - I have returned two of these because of what I would consider lack of quality construction - especially for the cost. Has anyone else had issues with this?


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By Geoffrey M
From St. Louis, MO
Jan 5, 2009

I think I tried to operate the drop seat once and found found it rather difficult. Adjusting the length of the leg loop straps (the rear ones, attached to the drop seat clip) is also a major pain, and virtually impossible to do yourself with the harness on (which, of course, is how you need to do it to get the length right).

I have not found the leg loops to be uncomfortable, nor have I had any problems with the gear loops. They are made to pop apart so that you can reverse them. Perhaps, the person (people?) who had problems with them falling apart got a defective unit on which they do not snap together correctly?

I also have never used the "haul loop" because it didn't look like it would hold the weight of a locking biner, let alone a rope.

Additionally, I have found the buckles on both the waist belt and the leg loops (I have the X-350a) to loosen gradually over time, and require periodic tightening. I have heard of other people having similar problems with other harnesses, but never had any such problem with my previous harness (sorry, can't remember the model or manufacturer right now).

That said, I love the harness. It takes up a small fraction of the space in a pack compared to my old harness, weighs next to nothing and is as comfortable as anything I've used. When trad climbing, I use ice clippers attached to the slots between the gear loops to rack nuts and tri-cams, and find that I can manage a pretty unreasonable large rack in a well-organized and easily accessible manner.

There are several kinks and opportunities for improvement, but none of them make me want to go back to my bulky old harness.


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2009
How I Send

vegastradguy wrote:
i'm actually shocked that folks are experiencing premature wear on these harnesses....


I am shocked as well - I have had two arc'teryx vapors that I only retired based on age(not wear and tear). So to have had two new 320s experience unusual wear and tear is amazing...The reinforcement on the leg loop connections became unusually wore prematurely and on my newest one, the stitching and over all workmanship is not what I would expect. Maybe if I was a hardcore climber and wore the harness all of the time, but I don't and it is not my primary harness...mainly because of the first one wearing out on me.


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By Mike Larson
From Aurora, CO
Jan 5, 2009
Weeping Wall Central Pillar

As to the durability issues, I've used my R-320 exclusively (likely between 70-100 days climbing)for the past 9 months and it still looks new. Have used the haul loop for tag/haul lines on multiple occasions and never have had issues. It is by far the best harness I have ever used when you take into account weight and bulk.


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By caughtinside
From Berkeley, CA
Jul 15, 2009

Tricky to size correctly. Leg loops run small. Careful when you're trying them on to note where the gear loops are. The harness may fit on the tightened down side, but then your loops are right over your thighs, don't want that gear hanging there.

One of the nice features is that you can pop off the plastic gear loop covers and reverse them, to better adjust your gear. I think this is the only harness that does that.

All told, I'd say this is a really nice harness. But, having worn it for a fair bit now, I'd also say that I'm not convinced it's worth paying 50 bucks extra for this one over a comparable Petzl.


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By wilcox510
Jul 19, 2009

I have this harness, I don't really like it all that much. True, you can barely feel that its on. But I feel like its so flimsy that with a lot of stuff on the gear loops it feels like its going to pull down past my iliac crest (it wont really do that, it just feels like it). Also the buckle is constantly slowly creeping open. I've had one other harness with the auto-doubled back buckle deal (an older Petzl) and it didnt do that.


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By Luke Stefurak
From San Diego, CA
Sep 10, 2009
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

I have enjoyed wearing this harness a lot.

My review can be found here:
http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/09/07/sweet-gear-a>>>>>

Pros:

Very lightweight and moves well with your body.

Comfortable to wear while hiking and descending from long routes.

Breathes well and is soft enough to wear shirtless.

Gear loops are reversible and large enough for a double rack of cams plus quickdraws.

Cons:

Gear loops are somewhat floppy and the plastic can become detached.

Gear loops are proportional to the size of harness. The smaller sized harnesses have less room for gear.

Adjustable leg loops are only available on the A300a and the X350a, the alpine WST harnesses.

Expensive.

- Luke


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By Tom Tresslar
Sep 11, 2009

Tits McGee wrote:
I can't believe no one has mentioned the durability (or lack there of) - I have returned two of these because of what I would consider lack of quality construction - especially for the cost. Has anyone else had issues with this?



Mine is quickly wearing away to nothing. One of the gear loops actually broke the 2nd time i used it. A 1.5 season lifespan for a $150 harness will make this my last arcteryx harness.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From Albuquerque, NM
Sep 11, 2009
PBR Time at the Creek

Only issue with mine is the lower tie in point has worn through to the warning marks. Other than that it is in great condition. I've had mine for 1.5 years with 95 days of outdoor use, mostly sport but some trad and wall climbing.

I've heard rumors that they are going to redesign the lower tie in point to improve the durability. Anyone else heard this?

Either way, I've been happy enough with mine to justify buying another one. Might try putting a piece of plastic or something on the lower tie in point to make it last longer.

As mentioned above the haul loop is flimsy looking, but mine has worked whenever I used it. But I've been a little nervous about when the full weight of a haul line is in on it.


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By Peter Pitocchi
Oct 27, 2009

I threaded a spectra dogbone onto the waist, past two gear loops and centered in the back. Works like a full strength haul loop to supplement the D-ring clip.


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2009

Found a site selling their last one 240 for $69, I couldn't say no. We will see firstly if it comes, if so I will post my thoughts though I think if you saw what I've been using you would understand there was no place to go but up. I must add though that Yogo really knew how to design a seat belt!


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Nov 17, 2009

Adam Block wrote:
Found a site selling their last one 240 for $69, I couldn't say no. We will see firstly if it comes, if so I will post my thoughts though I think if you saw what I've been using you would understand there was no place to go but up. I must add though that Yogo really knew how to design a seat belt!



which site? would be interested if it was $69....


never mind. found it here. buy here


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By caughtinside
From Berkeley, CA
Nov 17, 2009

That's the one with just two gear loops.

I have the 320 (four gear loops) and had FISH sew on a 5th in the back in the center, over the haul loop. Works well for extras on occassion.


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 17, 2009

Have had my 240 for over a year and still love it. Loggoed lots of air including a 50 and a 60 footer as well as many hours belaying as people worked projects. It is great. Need to get the 4 loop model for doing trad.


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Have had my 240 for over a year and still love it. Loggoed lots of air including a 50 and a 60 footer as well as many hours belaying as people worked projects. It is great. Need to get the 4 loop model for doing trad.


That's awesome to hear, we have a similar build and most of the bitching I hear from people about this harness is from big guys. I feel seriously guilty about spending the $70 on this thing, I'm sooooo broke right now I took the money from something else but whatever, I need a new harness pretty bad.

Will post my thoughts on it next week as that's the first chance I'll have to climb in it.


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Nov 18, 2009

About a year and a half of light use (2-4 times per month max) and I can already see orange thread wearing through on the leg loop tie in point. Bummer.....


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