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Use of Grigri w/a sub-10mm Rope?

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By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2008

Does anyone have experience using a Grigri w/a 9.8mm rope? I realize it's recommended for ropes b/t 10 & 11 mm but does the 0.2 mm make a noticeable difference in friction/braking ability?

By Ryan Huetter
From Toyota Tacoma
Apr 5, 2008
From Mountain Magazine (Bruce Carson's first clean ascent of Sentinal Rock's West Face)

I have a 9.7 mil cord, and have had ZERO trouble with my GriGri. No noticeable difference in terms of friction, slippage, etc.

By sean connors
Apr 6, 2008
Ken T'ank<br />Photo by Erik McGillvary.

Yer Fine

By Justin Dansby
From GA
Apr 6, 2008
Me at the top.

I used my grigri with a 9.8 for months before I read about not using it with a sub 10mm. I've never had any problems.

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
Apr 6, 2008
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

i remember that they changed the rating to 9.7 to 11mm there for a while- then mysteriously put it back to 10mm.

i know experienced belayers who will use the grigri on 9.1mm ropes with no problem. that said, i would definitely not recommend doing this unless you're very experienced as the grigri doesnt always grab the rope like it's supposed to at that small diameter.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Apr 6, 2008
Pitch 7

From time to time I use it on my 9.1mm rope for rapping while soloing and everytime I do it I go back to a 10 or 10.5mm the next time! The grip point is very fine.

By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 6, 2008
...you don't say!!

I'll say it will be fine also but the thing to do is to test it yourself. Are you thinking about buying a grigri and you already have the rope (or the other way around)?

Here, i took some pics of mine (excuse the battle scars). This may help explain why everyone's saying it will work just fine:

Input and output holes
Input fully open... non-engaged.
GriGri engaged (closed) about half way.
GriGri engaged (closed) almost 100%.  Calipers barely fit at this point, opening about two and three quarter millimeters.
GriGri engaged (closed) 100%.  Calipers no longer fit at this point.  2mm opening.

So, imo, it seems that it will be more of a question of if the rope has enough friction against the inner pulley route (to lift the mechanism for it to engage) rather than if the pinching mechanism will close enough on the rope to stop it.

By Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Apr 6, 2008

Wear gloves while lowering or rapping, and be prepared to include additional friction devices (I run the rope under my leg) or you're in for a bumpy ride. Its a lot easier to give a smooth stop with a fatter rope.

By chris deulen
From Duluth, MN
Apr 6, 2008
Me on Hidden Treasure. This is one of my favorite pics, as narcissistic as that is.

I would say use caution while breaking the rope in, as they always tend to "poof" out a little after a month or so. Most ropes nowadays have a some sort of dry-proofing on them, causing the rope to feel more slick than after a little wear and tear. I've heard the Cinch is better for smaller ropes, and actually is harder to feed with 10mm and up.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Apr 6, 2008
Pitch 7

One thing that I've found is that on a 10 or 10.5mm rope if I'm rapping and lean back on the grigri from a stance before removing my daisy chain it will automatically lock. On a 9.1 - 9.5mm rope it doesn't and you have check constantly that it is locked and loaded. Just another thing to think about.

By Rob "Roberto" Dowse
From Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2008
In The Bugaboos

I asked this question of Petzl and the response I got was that less than 10mm ropes will work but risk damage by being pinched too tight by the Gri Gri. That and I have had a couple scary rides on a skinny rope.

By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2008
Trying to lead Rock Lobster...unsuccessfully.

If you're really worried, you could get a Freino, it will add friction. This is after talking to a Petzl rep, not my personal use.

Petzl Freino


Check it out here

By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Apr 7, 2008

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful input. I'm actually kind of anti-Grigri...I've watched too many people lackadaisically belay with them and I've always been a little worried that it's easy to become reliant on the device. But, my girlfriend just started climbing and I thought I'd try one as a, perhaps safer, way to teach her to lead belay. Even though it sounds like a Grigri has worked with a mid-9mm rope for many people, I decided to take the time and teach her to lead belay on the basic, old-school belay device (and, at the gym). :)

By Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Apr 7, 2008

Crag Dweller wrote:
Thanks to everyone for all the helpful input. I'm actually kind of anti-Grigri...I've watched too many people lackadaisically belay with them and I've always been a little worried that it's easy to become reliant on the device. But, my girlfriend just started climbing and I thought I'd try one as a, perhaps safer, way to teach her to lead belay. Even though it sounds like a Grigri has worked with a mid-9mm rope for many people, I decided to take the time and teach her to lead belay on the basic, old-school belay device (and, at the gym). :)


That's probably the best option anyway, as belaying with a gri-gri uses the same basic technique with a couple of extras tacked on. Better to get solid on those basic techniques before tacking on anything.


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