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Trad Climbers - Question on racking your wires / BD Ice Clipper

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By freerangequark
From Buffalo Grove, Illinois
Jun 9, 2008
Halfway up Devil's Tower.

The other day I found a Black Diamond product called an Ice Clipper.

http://www.bdel.com/gear/ice_clipper.php

It's a non-load bearing plastic wiregate which has a little hook on the top to hold ice screws (or wires) up while you remove the one you want.

Does anyone have any experience using this to rack wires on?

Thanks,
Glenn

By John Langston
Jun 9, 2008

I think that would be a spectacular pain in the ass.

By Joseph P. Crotty
From Westminster, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Chilling at Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon.

freerangequark wrote:
It's a non-load bearing plastic wiregate which has a little hook on the top to hold ice screws (or wires) up while you remove the one you want.


It helps to see it in action to understand it's intended use.

Like John said it would be a pain. The design is so you can rack ice screws on your harness and remove with one hand. Good luck getting anything off of it other than that.

By freerangequark
From Buffalo Grove, Illinois
Jun 9, 2008
Halfway up Devil's Tower.

Thanks for that pic. I didn't realize its entire function. What I liked about it was that little hook on type.

I'm new to trad and have been racking my wires on two oval biners, gates outward and opening down. I still feel kinda clumsy when trying to remove the right piece from the biner. Even though I haven't dropped any (yet) it seems like some means of holding some pieces up and out of the way would be helpful.

-Glenn

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Usually when I place a stopper I grab the whole bunch (about 6-8 per biner), slot the one that fits, give it a yank to set it. Then I flop all of the stoppers on my racking biner out of the way so that I can then unclip it and then put them back on my harness. Most people I've seen climb do more or less the same thing.

By John Langston
Jun 9, 2008

Where you are making the mistake is in leaving your racking oval on your harness.

Take the whole thing off, find the nut that works and put it in, give it a tug (or more, depending on your preference and the placement), then unclip the oval. Now take a draw and attach it.

This seems like a lot of steps but it's really the quickest and simplest way out there.

By Joseph P. Crotty
From Westminster, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Chilling at Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon.

freerangequark wrote:
I'm new to trad and have been racking my wires on two oval biners, gates outward and opening down. I still feel kinda clumsy when trying to remove the right piece from the biner.


The oval biner is a good start as wires have more room to lay against each other and are not overly bunched assuming you don't have twenty wires on each oval (e.g., 10 is about max for me). The typical wire placing method is to remove the entire biner with the wires on it from your rack and hold the wires in your hand nearer to your face so you can assess which size you want relative to the placement. For a one handed placement use your teeth to grab the wire you want then move your hand to holding just that one wire and place. Repeat until you have the correct size for the placement then unclip the oval from the set wire. Reclip the oval with the remaing wires back to you rack. Draw the set wire and clip the rope.

By freerangequark
From Buffalo Grove, Illinois
Jun 9, 2008
Halfway up Devil's Tower.

Thanks for the tip! That will certainly make things a little easier. :)

-Glenn

By Larry
Jun 9, 2008

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Is there an echo in here?

By Joshua Blake
From Colorado Springs
Jun 9, 2008
Snaffel hounds suck

As a side note I have used the ice clipper to hold 3-4 tricams. Its a bit easier to judge which cam will work in a crack over nuts and with the right practice you can get the tricam off without a problem. I would imagine its a pain in the ass with 6-10 nuts though.

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Jun 10, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

pitons?

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 10, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

It might not be bad for pitons. I haven't even gotten close to wanting to mess with the ones I bought yet.

By John Fodor
Jun 10, 2008

The ice clipper works nice for pin if you only have a few on your harness, other wise I treat them like nuts a few to a biner.

By Stymingersfink
Jun 10, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

and I would only add that IME, avoid racking those wires on a key-lock style carabiner.

a wiregate oval is my favorite. Cheap too, though not as cheap as that leaver-biner I use for some wires.

By Charles Danforth
From L'ville, CO
Jun 10, 2008
Do a little dance...

Ice Clippers (or their Petzl equivalent) are also handy for racking ice tools when lowering off, scrambling, or other times when you want hands rather than tools. I know a couple people who rack nuts on there, but they're usually nuts on biners on the clippers. Not sure of their rational, but it seems to work for them.

By Shumin Wu
Jun 10, 2008

I've grown to hate ovals. More than once, I've dropped stuff off of them because I got confused which way the gate was pointed at when unclipping blindly from the harness.

By Larry
Jun 10, 2008

Stymingersfink wrote:
avoid racking those wires on a key-lock style carabiner. a wiregate oval is my favorite.


I disagree with both these statements. I've had too many self-unclipped wires while using wiregates for racking (though I use them for everything else).

The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch.

What's your experience been, Sty?

By MikeP
From Arvada, CO
Jun 10, 2008
Mike in the walkoff corridor on The Pear.

Larry wrote:
... The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch.


i agree with this, having the wire catch in the notch when your finishing the placement is troublesome.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Jun 10, 2008

Shumin Wu wrote:
I've grown to hate ovals. More than once, I've dropped stuff off of them because I got confused which way the gate was pointed at when unclipping blindly from the harness.


The gate can only have 2 possible orientations on your harness, depending on how you clip it there in the first place. If you always clip to your harness the same way (I'm a gate in guy), you should always know which way the gate is facing. If the gate is on the wrong side of your harness, you know it has rotated around, you just flip it once, and it's aligned correctly.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Jun 10, 2008
Wild Thing, Independence Pass, CO.

I'm all about using Petzl Spirits for racking my stoppers and I'm also a gate-in guy.

By Brandon Lampley
From Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2008

The ice clipper is a good idea, but it's too flimsy. Especially with a tool on it, it's easy to torque it while chimneying, or just against a wall. I've lost a tool while rapping, and two screws while leading and hip scumming. The plastic twists enough to have the gate pop right out.

OTOH, a Wild Country helium biner works even better. Profile works perfect for screws and tools. And you've got a couple extra biners instead of some plastic toys.

By RiggerMortis
From Denver Co
Jun 11, 2008

I rack a complete set of stoppers on one oval without much trouble. I also bring the whole mess to the point where I'm looking to place a piece, like most everyone here. I used to worry about dropping the whole set and would tie a lanyard on, or keep them on a separate long sling over my shoulder. Experience has bought me some confidence since then and I don't use a lanyard anymore.

As for the Ice Clipper... I don't want to carry much of anything that can't take a load, just in case I'm running out of gear. I've had to use my accessory and racking 'biners to finish a pitch more than once. If I can't use it as a 'biner in a pinch, I don't care how light or convenient it is, I don't want it.

Just keep doing what you're doing and practice will make it easier.

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Jun 11, 2008

Oh hell, I throw in a few thoughts:

Wire gates for racking wires: hate them because of exactly what someone already said - too many unclipped stoppers lost, plus the stopper wires get caught between the wires on the gates creating a cluster. I've also lost screws because wire gates are so easy to open. No wire gates for racking for me now.

Ovals: love them, especially for aid. Don't have a problem with gate orientation because all mine have that little beak on them that shows you the gate lock point.

Ice clippers: great for screws, but not much else. Pitons get racked on ovals for me.

Stoppers get racked on ovals, I split them up into big, medium, and tiny RPs on separate biners. I take the whole thing off and slot a nut, unclip then attach a draw as others have said.

By Stymingersfink
Jun 11, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

Larry wrote:
I disagree with both these statements. I've had too many self-unclipped wires while using wiregates for racking (though I use them for everything else). The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch. What's your experience been, Sty?

Yeah, there's no notch to catch the wire, so it just falls to the deck, with you none the wiser!

There have been many a time when I notice a wire caught in the notch, just hanging there till I do something about it.

A little clarification on a statement I made earlier:

I like racking my wires on a wire-gate oval, it's easy to tell which way is "up", while the gentle inside curve of the oval makes it easy to access just the right nut one-handed.

OTOH, one of my favorite biners to rack wires on (aside from the oval-wires) is a predecessor to this DMM biner:



The biner NEVER seems to turn itself over while on my harness, and it's only a little bit more of a hassle to find the right nut than it is to begin with. I think I got it in a complete-used-rack purchase, otherwise I'd never have bought it.

By Stymingersfink
Jun 11, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

MikeP wrote:
i agree with this, having the wire catch in the notch when your finishing the placement is troublesome.

If it's THAT difficult to unclip a biner full of wires from a single wire that's been already placed? ... well... IDK.


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