By freerangequark From Buffalo Grove, Illinois Jun 9, 2008
| The other day I found a Black Diamond product called an Ice Clipper.
http://www.bdel.com/gear/ice_clipper.php
It's a non-load bearing plastic wiregate which has a little hook on the top to hold ice screws (or wires) up while you remove the one you want.
Does anyone have any experience using this to rack wires on?
Thanks, Glenn |  |
By John Langston Jun 9, 2008
| I think that would be a spectacular pain in the ass. |  |
By Joseph P. Crotty From Westminster, CO Jun 9, 2008
| freerangequark wrote: It's a non-load bearing plastic wiregate which has a little hook on the top to hold ice screws (or wires) up while you remove the one you want.
It helps to see it in action to understand it's intended use.
Like John said it would be a pain. The design is so you can rack ice screws on your harness and remove with one hand. Good luck getting anything off of it other than that. |  |
By freerangequark From Buffalo Grove, Illinois Jun 9, 2008
| Thanks for that pic. I didn't realize its entire function. What I liked about it was that little hook on type.
I'm new to trad and have been racking my wires on two oval biners, gates outward and opening down. I still feel kinda clumsy when trying to remove the right piece from the biner. Even though I haven't dropped any (yet) it seems like some means of holding some pieces up and out of the way would be helpful.
-Glenn |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Jun 9, 2008
| Usually when I place a stopper I grab the whole bunch (about 6-8 per biner), slot the one that fits, give it a yank to set it. Then I flop all of the stoppers on my racking biner out of the way so that I can then unclip it and then put them back on my harness. Most people I've seen climb do more or less the same thing. |  |
By John Langston Jun 9, 2008
| Where you are making the mistake is in leaving your racking oval on your harness.
Take the whole thing off, find the nut that works and put it in, give it a tug (or more, depending on your preference and the placement), then unclip the oval. Now take a draw and attach it.
This seems like a lot of steps but it's really the quickest and simplest way out there. |  |
By Joseph P. Crotty From Westminster, CO Jun 9, 2008
| freerangequark wrote: I'm new to trad and have been racking my wires on two oval biners, gates outward and opening down. I still feel kinda clumsy when trying to remove the right piece from the biner.
The oval biner is a good start as wires have more room to lay against each other and are not overly bunched assuming you don't have twenty wires on each oval (e.g., 10 is about max for me). The typical wire placing method is to remove the entire biner with the wires on it from your rack and hold the wires in your hand nearer to your face so you can assess which size you want relative to the placement. For a one handed placement use your teeth to grab the wire you want then move your hand to holding just that one wire and place. Repeat until you have the correct size for the placement then unclip the oval from the set wire. Reclip the oval with the remaing wires back to you rack. Draw the set wire and clip the rope. |  |
By freerangequark From Buffalo Grove, Illinois Jun 9, 2008
| Thanks for the tip! That will certainly make things a little easier. :)
-Glenn |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Jun 9, 2008
| Is there an echo in here? |  |
By Joshua Blake From Colorado Springs Jun 9, 2008
| As a side note I have used the ice clipper to hold 3-4 tricams. Its a bit easier to judge which cam will work in a crack over nuts and with the right practice you can get the tricam off without a problem. I would imagine its a pain in the ass with 6-10 nuts though. |  |
By Tim Stich From Colorado Springs, Colorado Jun 10, 2008
| It might not be bad for pitons. I haven't even gotten close to wanting to mess with the ones I bought yet. |  |
By John Fodor Jun 10, 2008
| The ice clipper works nice for pin if you only have a few on your harness, other wise I treat them like nuts a few to a biner. |  |
By Stymingersfink Jun 10, 2008
| and I would only add that IME, avoid racking those wires on a key-lock style carabiner.
a wiregate oval is my favorite. Cheap too, though not as cheap as that leaver-biner I use for some wires. |  |
By Charles Danforth From L'ville, CO Jun 10, 2008
| Ice Clippers (or their Petzl equivalent) are also handy for racking ice tools when lowering off, scrambling, or other times when you want hands rather than tools. I know a couple people who rack nuts on there, but they're usually nuts on biners on the clippers. Not sure of their rational, but it seems to work for them. |  |
By Shumin Wu Jun 10, 2008
| I've grown to hate ovals. More than once, I've dropped stuff off of them because I got confused which way the gate was pointed at when unclipping blindly from the harness. |  |
By Larry Jun 10, 2008
| Stymingersfink wrote: avoid racking those wires on a key-lock style carabiner. a wiregate oval is my favorite.
I disagree with both these statements. I've had too many self-unclipped wires while using wiregates for racking (though I use them for everything else).
The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch.
What's your experience been, Sty? |  |
By MikeP From Arvada, CO Jun 10, 2008
| Larry wrote: ... The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch.
i agree with this, having the wire catch in the notch when your finishing the placement is troublesome. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Jun 10, 2008
| Shumin Wu wrote: I've grown to hate ovals. More than once, I've dropped stuff off of them because I got confused which way the gate was pointed at when unclipping blindly from the harness.
The gate can only have 2 possible orientations on your harness, depending on how you clip it there in the first place. If you always clip to your harness the same way (I'm a gate in guy), you should always know which way the gate is facing. If the gate is on the wrong side of your harness, you know it has rotated around, you just flip it once, and it's aligned correctly. |  |
By Jay Knower Administrator Jun 10, 2008
| I'm all about using Petzl Spirits for racking my stoppers and I'm also a gate-in guy. |  |
By Brandon Lampley From Boulder, CO Jun 11, 2008
| The ice clipper is a good idea, but it's too flimsy. Especially with a tool on it, it's easy to torque it while chimneying, or just against a wall. I've lost a tool while rapping, and two screws while leading and hip scumming. The plastic twists enough to have the gate pop right out.
OTOH, a Wild Country helium biner works even better. Profile works perfect for screws and tools. And you've got a couple extra biners instead of some plastic toys. |  |
By RiggerMortis From Denver Co Jun 11, 2008
| I rack a complete set of stoppers on one oval without much trouble. I also bring the whole mess to the point where I'm looking to place a piece, like most everyone here. I used to worry about dropping the whole set and would tie a lanyard on, or keep them on a separate long sling over my shoulder. Experience has bought me some confidence since then and I don't use a lanyard anymore.
As for the Ice Clipper... I don't want to carry much of anything that can't take a load, just in case I'm running out of gear. I've had to use my accessory and racking 'biners to finish a pitch more than once. If I can't use it as a 'biner in a pinch, I don't care how light or convenient it is, I don't want it.
Just keep doing what you're doing and practice will make it easier. |  |
By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO Jun 11, 2008
| Oh hell, I throw in a few thoughts:
Wire gates for racking wires: hate them because of exactly what someone already said - too many unclipped stoppers lost, plus the stopper wires get caught between the wires on the gates creating a cluster. I've also lost screws because wire gates are so easy to open. No wire gates for racking for me now.
Ovals: love them, especially for aid. Don't have a problem with gate orientation because all mine have that little beak on them that shows you the gate lock point.
Ice clippers: great for screws, but not much else. Pitons get racked on ovals for me.
Stoppers get racked on ovals, I split them up into big, medium, and tiny RPs on separate biners. I take the whole thing off and slot a nut, unclip then attach a draw as others have said. |  |
By Stymingersfink Jun 11, 2008
| Larry wrote: I disagree with both these statements. I've had too many self-unclipped wires while using wiregates for racking (though I use them for everything else). The keylock is great because the wires don't hang up in the gate notch. There is no gate notch. What's your experience been, Sty? Yeah, there's no notch to catch the wire, so it just falls to the deck, with you none the wiser!
There have been many a time when I notice a wire caught in the notch, just hanging there till I do something about it.
A little clarification on a statement I made earlier:
I like racking my wires on a wire-gate oval, it's easy to tell which way is "up", while the gentle inside curve of the oval makes it easy to access just the right nut one-handed.
OTOH, one of my favorite biners to rack wires on (aside from the oval-wires) is a predecessor to this DMM biner:
The biner NEVER seems to turn itself over while on my harness, and it's only a little bit more of a hassle to find the right nut than it is to begin with. I think I got it in a complete-used-rack purchase, otherwise I'd never have bought it. |  |
By Stymingersfink Jun 11, 2008
| MikeP wrote: i agree with this, having the wire catch in the notch when your finishing the placement is troublesome. If it's THAT difficult to unclip a biner full of wires from a single wire that's been already placed? ... well... IDK. |  |
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