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By Jeff Wilson
From Sammamish, WA
Jun 18, 2008
Smith Rock

Any consensus about what makes up a standard Teton rack?
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 18, 2008
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Jeff Wilson wrote:
Any consensus about what makes up a standard Teton rack?


Nah. Really depends on the route, type of route, and your tolerance for the type of terrain and grade.

Obviously, a "rack" for the Enclosure Coulior will be different than for Irene's Arete, for instance.

For me, it more depends on the grade of the route. I'll take the 4 smallest hexes only as a rock rack if the grade is low enough that I'm comfy. For something more challenging, I'll bump up to a pretty full set of cams with a set of nuts, slings and draws to match. For something harder, doubles on the size gear that would be crux related.

The recommended rack in the front of the Ortenburger/Jackson guide is pretty spot on.

Cheers.
By doug s
From Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2008
How I Send

Obviously a number of factors apply here -
which route, type of climb, and length of approach...

I would take your standard rack on your trip and pare down or beef it up based on the climb...carry only what you feel comfortable with leading/carrying on the approach...some approaches can be a bit long.
By Jeff Wilson
From Sammamish, WA
Jun 21, 2008
Smith Rock

Here's a better question. Having been up Baxter's and Symmetry Spire I know I can do those climbs with what I call a light rack; Set of nuts and a set of cams to 2", slings, draws and spare biner's, though I would take a couple more cams and a few hexes to set up belays. Can't see needing much more than this for the full Exum or North Ridge, eh?

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