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By John Wilder
Jul 17, 2009

...


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By David Bayendor
From Denver, CO
Jul 20, 2009
Four pitches up "Gaiter Breaker" (SE Face Flattop Mtn), asking "Are we there yet?"

Just thought I says thanks for taking the time, Vegas Trad Guy!

I don't have any special requests, just curious to see what catches your eye from a Trad/Alpine point of view...

Thanks again, looking forward to your articles!


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
From Fort Collins, CO
Jul 21, 2009
rappelling the Crack of Delight on 21-Sept in a pretty heinous snowstorm.  photo credit to Jesse Ramos.

DMM Camalot-killer?!?! I'm there. I love DMM's hardware, and if that thing's as dragon as it sounds i might even get a job to buy some...


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Jul 21, 2009
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Aaron Martinuzzi wrote:
i might even get a job to buy some...


Whoa! Settle down there killer!
Don't do anything rash.

josh


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 21, 2009
skiing one

Thanks for posting up the invite. Looking forward to your reports ...

If you get a chance please ask DMM when shops are going to be able to start shipping DMM brass offsets...

The ship dates just continues to slip.

Many thanks.

john


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 21, 2009
skiing one

If you have time ...

Metolius new budget portaledge? I think it is called Gizmo!

Black diamond wall gloves?

Thanks.

John


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By Klimbien
From OREM, UTAH
Jul 22, 2009
Zion - GWT Great White Throne crag

Hey Vegas heres a question for you?
Do you know if Steve Petro is working with DMM still?


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Klimbien wrote:
Hey Vegas heres a question for you? Do you know if Steve Petro is working with DMM still?


Yep. Saw he and Lisa yesterday.


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

John McNamee wrote:
If you have time ... Metolius new budget portaledge? I think it is called Gizmo!


From his daily rc.com update:

"Also new this year is the Gizmo, a micro-ledge inspired by Doug Phillip’s dog Gizmo, but built for folks who need something to stand on, but not necessarily to sleep on- in particular, photographers! It’s roughly 2’ x 4’ and retails at $390- look for it in the spring."

2 by 4, John? You thinkin' fetal position, or what? Maybe hang your feet off the end...

Cheers!


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 22, 2009
skiing one

Brian,

2 x 4, you got to be joking about that... If you can't lie down on the ledge and have a good nights sleep then why take one!

I thought is was going to be a full size single budget ledge so I guess I'm wrong. Maybe its a nice belay seat!

Cheers

john


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By Luke Stefurak
From San Diego, CA
Jul 22, 2009
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Guessing the new Metolius ledge is similar to the Fish one night stand.

Fish on the left and Metolius on the right.


http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/portaledges.html


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 23, 2009
skiing one

Day 1 of the show


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 23, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

John McNamee wrote:
Black diamond wall gloves?


Yep. In a word: svelte.

Both fingerless and with fingers.

Low profile, nice lookin'.

One item BD has that will be a winner for me is their lightweight harness. 1/2 pound or so. Low volume (nice for alpine). Looks like an ultralight version of the bod. Nicely done. Orange color reminds me of a whillans or some such...(although it's a nice color).

Did get to fondle the DMM cams too. They have an extendable sling. Thumb loop is a tad smaller. Stem seemed longer and was solid one piece rather than "twistable" like the BD one (which may prove to not be an improvement). Nicely sculpted cams. Larger sizes did seem a bit lighter, but, not much if any noticable difference in the smaller sizes. Action was nice.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 24, 2009
skiing one

Thanks for the update Brian

Day 2 report from rc.com

A big thanks to John W for putting so much time and effort into the reports. It's like being there.


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By Ian F.
From Phx
Jul 27, 2009

Luke Stefurak wrote:
Guessing the new Metolius ledge is similar to the Fish one night stand. Fish on the left and Metolius on the right. http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/portaledges.html








Looking at this design, I couldn't help but wonder. Why can't this small design be combined with a hammock to make half where you can stand and sit, and then the other half hammock style, so when you sleep you have support for your legs, that can be adjusted to different heights. It would require a bent bar on the hammock side, to allow for comfort, not having your legs go over a bar. You could use the hammock side as a lounge chair for long belays. It would also cut down on weight. Anyone have any thoughts.


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