So a couple months ago I posted on here about my evolv shoes which had a hole right through the rand and at the time was not prepared to buy new ones. Well the time has come to bite the bullet and get a new pair however I am looking to buy ones with stronger rubber (and I need to stop toeing I know this and am working on it haha)...So here are some options - what do you all suggest?

1) Scarpa Rockettes

2) La Sportiva Nagos

3) 5.10 Anasazis (my climbing partner just bought these but they arent in yet)

4) Scarpa Veloce

Any other suggestions?

I mainly do indoor climbs as I am fairly new (working on my 10s still) but I am trying to venture outdoors more - all help is appreciated
Thanks!
Shauna

In my experience, 5.10 rubber is more durable than la sportiva. La sports glue can delaminate a bit sometimes. That said, I think they're both great shoe companies, but I prefer La sports for fit and performance. You mileage may vary.

I can't comment on the others.

I think any of those shoes would probably suit you well, and you should choose based on fit. The keys to long shoe life are not toe dragging(you know this) and getting them resoled as soon as you wear through the sole. Note that you will most likely only wear out the tips of your toes, but, if you don't resole at this point, you will guarantee a rand repair as well. A stitch in time saves nine.

I agree with Evan. 5.10 makes probably the most durable rubber especially the C4 Stealth sole, and since you're mostly climbing in the gym then that's probably a goog thing to consider. The anasazis are a great all around shoe and are in fact what I use in the gym. Outside I prefer La Sportiva.

I've actually had the opposite experience - I had my katanas resoled with stealth rubber and found it quite a bit softer than the Vibram XSGrip used by scarpa and sportiva. I found the 5.10 rubber to be stickier, but significantly less durable; my XSGrip resoles were lasting me 4+ months of bouldering on plastic and sandstone ~3 days a week, while the 5.10 rubber lasted abou 3 months.

Other than that, ditto evan's advice - buy a shoe that fits properly and exercise good footwork.

Interesting test here, pity they didn't include a durometer test column, would've been interesting to compare hardness, which may be more applicable to wear than the term "strength".

kind of off topic, but I have a pair of evolvs, and I guess my footwork int that careful or something because i put a little tiny hole right through the rubber on the tip o' the toe before anything else even looked worn. I have since filled the hole with 5 minute epoxy, which isn't sticky but will protect the toe from further abrasion, and can be reapplied if necessary. So far I'm happy with the results.

5.10 rubber has consistently lasted for 8-12 months of climbing 3-4 days per week indoor and outdoor. This experience is over 5 pairs of shoes and an additional 2 resoles. The resoles lasted only slightly less time than the original rubber sole.

Keep in mind there are different types and thicknesses of rubber. The thicker the rubber, the longer it lasts.

I have nagos and they seem to be holding up well. I have used them 2 times a week all summer mostly outdoor.

I have had many discussions with friends and climbing partners about shoes and one thing I have found is that body weight is a big factor in how long shoes and soles last. At a paltry 145 lbs. soaking wet, my shoes tend to last me a long time. Peolpe who weigh more are putting more stress on basically the same materials and thickness.

I tend to have the same problem with the tip of my big toe wearing out very quickly... I know they are expensive and more aggressive shoes, but the La Sportiva Solutions have a tremendous amount of rubber on the toe and have lasted longer than any other pair I have ever owned, even with excessive use (at least 3 or 4 days a week for nearly a year and a half). They will also take your climbing to the next level. The aggressive toe never loses its down-turn and the rubber is very durable, I've also never had any peeling from the glue. The only downside to these are the straps; they will break before you wear a hole in the toe, but if you tape the parts that go through the metal grommets, the strap will hold up considerably longer. Just my two cents, they are the best shoes I've ever owned!!!