Hello. I will be leaving behind the legacy of the 5.10 Newton that I've enjoyed for the past eight years and move toward the Scarpa Techno. How is the stretch factor? I wear street shoe 11 and 10.5 trad. What size would you recommend? Performance? Other information?

Thank you.

Just bought a pair of Technos -- I wear 11.5 to 12 street size and found the 45 Techno fit well. I'd suggest you try the 44 or 44.5. Neptune's in Boulder has them.

Have only worn them once outside so can't tell you about stretch. Paul at Neptune's said they won't stretch too much.

They will stretch about a half size, maybe a tiny tiny bit more, but nothing like some other shoes.

I'm on my 2nd pair and they do stretch a little but not much. Techno's are great shoes. I wore them last fall the entire time in Yosemite on the Salathe and other craggin'. Yep, 1/2 size sounds about right.

Yeah, they're great shoes, really durable in my opinion. I climb at least a little four or five days a week, sometimes more, and my pair that I have had for well over a year is still in great shape (all things considered) and will not need a resole until next winter likely.

I've been wearing mine since last August and have had very little stretch.

For all day comfort I went 1 size smaller than my street shoe and I haven't noticed any significant stretch. Make sure you try them on before you buy them, but I guess that goes without saying.

Thanks everyone. Regarding the size - I assume from your posts that I should not size down the shoe too much. Sunday is my birthday, so, I have liberty from my darling wife and baby boy(six months old) to climb the entire day(a rarity in my life these days)and will be climbing Ramblin' Rose on Wigwam Dome.

I bought the Techno's and climbed six pitches in the platte on Friday (the day after I purchased them). I went with a size smaller than my street shoe as that size fit about right in the store. My toes were screaming at the end of the day(smearing, toeing, jaming, etc). Having not purchased new shoes in years, is this normal for the Techo?

Sorry to divert with a different query, Shane. But what kind of feet are Technos supposed to fit? Does it include wide and boxy like mine, or not so much?

To your inquiry, though: based on others' posts suggesting that the shoe will stretch half a size, it seems a little aggressive to buy and jump onto a full day and six pitches of climbing. It does, anyway, if you're counting on some of that stretch to provide final comfort.

My experience - with normal break in time (five or 6 days?)they will be super comfey. I'm on my second pair and totalty love them. I might equate them to Mythos as far as fit goes (foot shape).

Hmmm, I never had to "break in" any of my three pairs of Mythos. They are snug, but comfy. As far as the sizing; I wear a womans size 6 in street shoes, but went with a euro- 37 (half size bigger) in climbing shoes so I could wear socks with it comfortably. Even on long walk-offs in my new shoes, my feet stayed happy.

I'm sorry about your Technos; I'd hate for my feet to scream in climbing shoes; climbing itself is painful enough!

Good luck on your shoe sizings!

Sort of similar experience to Shane. My Technos seem to fit well, but they start killing the top end of my big toenails after a pitch or so. I've worn them about 20 days, so they are pretty much broken in, but have never really stretched very much. I actually took them to a cobbler to try to stretch the spot that hurts without any luck. I may have to give up on them.

I'm suprised to hear people say their technos didn't stretch much...mine probably stretched 3/4 of a size. Granted I sized them snug initially because I wanted a "performance" trad shoe, but they turned sloppy on me. I appreciate their stiffness compared to the Mythos but they just don't fit my Five Ten feet very well. I'd recommend trying on the 5.10 Piton or maybe even the Evolv Quest if possible.

Hi Mitch-
Still puzzled about my earlier problem: what are Five Ten feet or Scarpa feet?
Mine are wide and blocky. What brands should I look at?

I bought Technos to replace my Mythos. Their fit is similar, but the Mythos tend to stretch a bit more. I bought the Technos to fit snug, but not to the point of being uncomfortable. They're comfortable enough to wear all day. And they don't seem to stretch much during the course of a day or after many days of climbing.

The Technos are a lot like the Mythos. They smear well and have a low profile that is great for thin cracks. But the Technos are stiffer and seem to edge quite a bit better than the Mythos. They also seem to be holding up better than the Mythos did.

Hopefully your shoes will stretch enough to be comfortable soon. If not, you might try is a shoe stretcher--I have had good results with them on shoes that are just a bit on the small side. The ones made of cedar keep your shoes nice and fresh too.

My feet are wide in the toes, narrow in the heels and measure 9.5 US / 42.5 EU. Left foot is a little longer than the right (supposedly common for right-handed people). Initially I got the techno's down 1 euro size (41.5) thinking they would stretch, but after about 5 days of climbing they were still pretty painful, so I went up to 42, which is comfortable and they still climb well. I really like them.

I had similar foot screaming issues when I first got my Technos. They have broken in and are fantastic IMO. When I first got them I got a size that curled my toes slightly and provided a snug fit on the sides. They now fit snugly and super comfortably.