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Racking on a Runner?

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By Dailey
From Edwards
Aug 9, 2009

Is it bad to rack pro on a full strength runner? Spoke with a climber who was totally against it because of the danger if a piece caught in a fall. Are gear slings made to tear at a certain load or could they theoretically do the same?


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By PRRose
From Boulder
Aug 9, 2009

Dailey wrote:
Is it bad to rack pro on a full strength runner? Spoke with a climber who was totally against it because of the danger if a piece caught in a fall. Are gear slings made to tear at a certain load or could they theoretically do the same?


Some gear slings are full strength. Don't know about all.


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By cheifitj
From Louisville, Colorado
Aug 9, 2009
Casual Route Pitch 3 <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

I have a metolious gear sling, with the four loops on one side and an extra one to go under your arm on the other. I am pretty sure it would not break loose.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 9, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

I believe most are full strength or close. I'm sure none are designed to break under a force that is safe for your neck. What would that be? Less than 50lbs? There's no such product.

And yet, we don't hear about necks wrung by gear slings in falls. So either the slings just don't catch on things, or the configuration of including the arm and shoulder in the loop protects your neck. Either way, full strength is OK.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Aug 9, 2009
Russ

Dailey wrote:
Is it bad to rack pro on a full strength runner? Spoke with a climber who was totally against it because of the danger if a piece caught in a fall. Are gear slings made to tear at a certain load or could they theoretically do the same?



I rack on a runner all the time.....

Gear slings are made to be bomber..... full strength is the norm. Full strength, whatever that number might be given the material, is about 26 times stronger than your larynx.

There is a possibility that the guy who died rapping off of ElCap only a few feet from the ground was suspended by his hammer sling, which is basically a runner around his neck/shoulder. Not 100% sure that is the case though.


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By Dailey
From Edwards
Aug 9, 2009

cool, thanks for the input guys. Think i'll continue keeping things on slings. How ironic would it be to take a long fall due to lack of placement only for something to hang up on the way down.


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