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By Joseph P. Crotty
From Westminster, CO
Apr 28, 2008
Chilling at Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon.

Richard Radcliffe wrote:
... But the 'biner clipped to the bolt will be opposite: gate in spine out, which would seem to be less than desirable. You can easily use your imagination to see how this arrangement could be bad news if you're using the QD with gear. Can anyone explain to me why I'm wrong?


Richard, are saying the thickness of the hanger will tilt the nose of the hanger biner in towards the rock? If that is the case I would think that vertical and under vertical climbs would negate this as the force from a fall on the hanger biner would most likely be parallel to the rock and the length of the hanger biner would act to diminish this effect. Note: Ring bolts would be create the situation you mention.

From a non physics perspective, after some thought, I would think that steeper climbs where the length of the hanger biner doesn't lay flat against the rock would create better conditions for the nose of the hanger biner to be mashed into the rock.

My take on quickdraw biner set up has always been gates reversed, but I know plausable arguments exist for both. My real concerns when clipping protection:

  • Both quick draw biner gates do not face a corner
  • I can "finger" the draw I am about to clip as opposed to a reverse "finger" clip or the dreaded open hand clip

Of course, at a desperate crux all habits are forgotten and anything goes!

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