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Modifying your Gri-Gri

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By Matt TeNgaio
Oct 19, 2007

Does anyone here use the Peztl Shunt for TR'ing solo? I'd like to keep my GRi-Gri the way it is, non-modified. Maybe the Shunt as a primary and an ascender or something similar as a secondary?
By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2007
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce_hildenbrand/11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

Matt TeNgaio wrote:
Does anyone here use the Peztl Shunt for TR'ing solo? I'd like to keep my GRi-Gri the way it is, non-modified. Maybe the Shunt as a primary and an ascender or something similar as a secondary?

Matt,

As I mentioned in my previous post, my route-setting partner (Bruno Hache) uses the Petzl Shunt for toprope soloing all the time, with a Wild Country Ropeman as a backup. He weights the rope with a pack (usually the drill bag). He's used this system to establish a number of steep 5.11 sport routes, including Sidekick, Tag Team, and Hard Times, on Tonnere Tower in Boulder Canyon.

He's off on a road trip right now, but I'll ask him to post up here when he gets back.
By Matt TeNgaio
Oct 19, 2007

Ron,
That would be great if your friend could post some tips and opinions on the gear he uses for TR'ing solo.

I've got gym here that I can do some testing at. The more I read around the web, the more I'm convinced that the Shunt is what I need as primary TR solo device. Now if I can only find one used for a good price…
By Jim Sweeney
Oct 19, 2007

Matt,

Maybe this can help you.
http://www.thebikezone.org.uk/therockzone/selfbelay.html
By Jed Pointer
From Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007

Yo -

A modified gri-gri can *CUT YOUR ROPE* in a way that a backup knot will be useless.

Check it out - when you remove the flap, the rope is then allowed to wrap around the brake lever.

The brake lever is very sharp.

Trying playing with it on your own and understand this potentially lethal failure mode before you head out.

Unmodified Gri-gri - great when you have a free hand, as in aiding or easier free climbing. My modified unit has seen no use since I realized the above. Too many other things to think about, and unmodified is fine for 99% of my use - short fixing on walls where most soloing occurs below 5.9 and on aid. For the other 1%, I wait for a human belay.

JLP

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