so I just came back from Indian creek and I now have smoked through the laces of my mythos(not just one shoe but both shoes). this shoe is less than a year old and maybe four days total in the desert. so the dilemma is, do I just put up with putting new laces in them every 2nd trip to the desert or look for a new shoe. looking for some advice on what people are using. the new scarpa techno looks similar but the laces look exposed as well. I have tried on the five ten moccasym and it doesn't fit very well and I own the viper, but still in the break in phase. I also own the trad master and it is clunky, not very sensitive.comfortable for all day climbing though. My girlfriend has owned her mythos for six years and has not had this problem. my assumption is that my foot is larger and the laces are exposed more when jamming in cracks.

kevin.
have you tried a slightly oversized 5.10 moc that you can even get a sock in? i size mine comfortable enough that my toes are completely flat with wiggle room. i use socks for wider cracks, and sometimes none for thinner cracks. at anyrate, you will eventually wear holes in the toe.

i opt for slippers because they are more supple than laceups. oversized viper would work too, but they still fit too narrow for me.

crack climbing in slippers also necessitates an adjustment in foot jamming technique, and have to stuff them in there more subtly and precisely. think of it as not so much foot jamming, but rather foot 'placement'.

speaking of the viper, i have heard good things from folks with the barracuda which is essentially a laceup viper. and both are on the katana last. barracuda's lacing wraps them slightly off center, and there is better rubber coverage on it and the viper over the toe box.

at any rate. best advice for a crack shoe is to size them big. unless you are climbing small finger to tips cracks, which need more power/precision, and are treated like face routes anyway.

thanks darren. I'll give it a go. by the way your clear creek book is awesome! really enjoying it.

La Sportiva Baracuda or scarpa Vision V. They both have vibram mesh like rubber on the top. I have not decided wich I like more but they both are my fave for crack.

I do dig the Moccasym for crack climbing.

I vote for these (photo courtesy L. Hamilton)

i have used the mocs, i have used mythos, i have used many different crack shoes. mocs don't work anywhere outside of indian creek (where you guys consider trad, but it is not). mythos are the biggest crack climbing myth around, they are not worth what they charge for them. none of them compare to a pair of broken in mad rock frenzy's. you will read reviews that say they aren't for performance trad, but that is not the case. once a bit of the rubber wears off, and you can actually feel the rock under your feet, they become the superior crack shoe for all sized cracks. you can not beat their price either. you will not be dissappointed.

I got a pair of the 5.10 Pitons for crack climbing and dig them.

I use mythos and have had the same problem. Now I use these laces in them. Problem pretty much solved.

http://www.gemplers.com/product/KV54/Pair-of-54-Kevlar-Boot->>>>>

Converse AllStars!!
or PF flyers if you can find them.


and Kevin,
One tip on the mythos laces to keep them from blowing on the toes.
Rotate them slightly. You can adjust them so they do not wear constantly in the same place. This is done of course by pulling on either side of the lace that wraps around the heal. Then tighten up the rest. This helps them wear in new places and not bust through.
and maybe your girlfriend has better foot work then you :)

the 5.10 altias high tops are great for trad.

Kevin,

As we be jammin pointed out, there are really two questions here. "What is the best shoe for indian creek?" and "What is the best shoe for crack climbing?" (most crack climbing does not consist of 100% foot in the crack moves)

For IC, most people like something soft that allows the toes to lay flat. I did too in fact. I always used the Evolve Quest, once broken in it is very soft and really comfy for cracks. Not much of a face climber though.

Outside of IC I would switch between the Quest, Talon, and Bandit, depending on the route's needs.

Very recently, Evolve released a shoe called the Quest AF. It has a more snug heel, better fit arch, and is much stiffer. I tried it out in the creek and found that regardless of stiffness, it didn't hold me back. In fact, due to it's superior edging ability, it climbs a bit better. It's great on non-IC cracks too. It's the most well rounded shoe for all types of hard climbing I've ever seen. A lot more durable than the original quest too.

Whether or not Evolves are magic, what it really comes down to is footwork in the creek. It's an often ignored aspect of climbing there. Now with the proper "sandstone splitter" footwork it doesn't matter that much whether you're wearing approach shoes, slipper, mega's, or barefoot. What matters it that you've figured out the trick to get your feet to stay in the crack (and it's not jamming harder). Due to this very delicate lack of delicacy, most people dismiss splitter footwork as "no footwork". A fall in IC is not the fault of the shoes, but where you put them.

adding to this discussion, I'm curious if there are any pros-or-cons to board lasted vs. slip

I too am a big fan of the Mythos. Great I.C. crack shoe that also really does well up the hill at Turkey Rocks. I've tried using my Moccasyms for everything and found them most useful on cupped hand size and smaller. If the crack goes into off-width where a heel-toe is used for footwork, the Moccasym is a little too soft IMO. In response to the lace question...burning through laces is just something that happens w/ the Mythos. Using 4mm cord is an inexpensive fix but I think the Kevlar laces may be something to look into. Just my .02

overgeneralizing, or stating the obvious. mythos are a rip off that fall apart two or three cracks in. mocs work for the creek, and a few other things, but they start rotating on your feet before too long. it is real hard to hold a jam when your shoe is on sideways. mad rocks mold to my feet better than any other shoe i have worn. i want to try evolvs, as i hear they mold well too. you need something to strap your shoes on your feet or else you will be a one trick pony climbing at the creek for the rest of your life.

yeah man, i understand. i just think that people get too excited over the more expensive brands when they buy shoes. i have had 5.10s and sportiva's and liked them both, but i just think that mad rock has performed much better on a lot of the climbs i have done. it just ends up being what feels comfortable.

has anyone had any experience with the new scarpa techno. I know it hasn't been on the market all that long. I've never owned a pair of scarpa's. by the way I just tried using cordage thinking that it would be stronger. what a pain in the ass to lace.

These shoes might be good to smoke crack in