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Looking for a 70m rope recommendation

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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Portland, OR
Nov 3, 2009
Belay

Specifically, something from this page.

I'm looking for a nice sub-10mm single dry rope for all-around sport and trad climbing. I have never really been tied to a particular brand, and I'm pretty happy with the Mammut that I've been using for the last couple of years. All ropes tend to feel about the same to me in the store and during their first dozen times out, so I guess my only real criteria is to have something that will break in nicely.

Any recommendations? Anything I should stay away from?

Thanks.


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Nov 3, 2009
sunset self caricature (2)

Edelweiss Performance 9.2 is my vote.


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By Angus wiessner
From Denver Colorado
Nov 3, 2009
Nice warm up stemming route

Beal i am on my second beal and i love it they are going to stop selling them in the Usa so get one quick they are on sale on www.moosejaw.com i would spend a little extra and go with golden dry it has a great feel. I have owned dry and golden dry and i can tell a diffence in feel.


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By Ross Keller
From Conifer, CO
Nov 3, 2009
Shootin' off my ass

My choice from the page you provided would be the Bluewater Lightning Pro BiColor Double Dry 9.7mm x 70M.

The big trade off in going with a sub-10mm rope is durability vs. weight. I tend to look for low impact force, high falls rating and moderate elongation in selecting a cord. The weight per meter is useful in getting a idea of overall stiffness as well, but it's only a WAG since a lot factors into it.


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By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Nov 3, 2009
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

I just picked up an Edelweiss Laser, from that page, actually. I've climbed 12-15 routes on it. I'm pretty happy so far. It handles very nicely and has a soft catch. The duodess is an added bonus, especially considering the rope didn't cost what most duodess ropes cost. And, based on the limited use its seen so far, the sheath seems to hold up well to abrasion.

Previously, I had a Petzl Nomad. I liked it. It had the softest catch I've experienced. It kinked a little more than I'd like, though, even after 2+ years of climbing. The sheath did hold up well over time, contrary to reviews I read about the first gen Nomads.

Prior to that, I had a 10mm Mammut. I liked it but I'm not sure Mammut's are worth the added coin.

I've also used a 9.7mm Bluewater (the lightning, I think). It's ok but it doesn't handle as nicely as the Edelweiss or the Petzl. But, it doesn't kink as badly as the Petzl, either.


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Nov 3, 2009
sunset self caricature (2)

i say go with the least expensive one. but i think it depends how long it lasts you. i am psyched if a rope lasts longer than 6 months.

or to say it another way, i expect a rope to cost around $4 per climbing day.


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By Tyson Anderson
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 3, 2009
yawn

I got a 70m Edelweiss Laser on sale a while back and I love it.

http://www.bentgate.com/laarc9x70mdr.html


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By brooks8970
From Berkeley, CA
Nov 3, 2009
dinner ledge

I have the beal booster and its the best rope ive ever owned. It wears well, is a nice balance between weight and strength, and has a terrific hand. That being said, edelweiss and mammutt make great ropes too.


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By boydpainting
Nov 3, 2009

Buy mine! JK


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By darrell hodges
From elk ridge utah
Nov 3, 2009

I'd recommend Bluewater lightning pro.
I'm on my second one and it my favorite rope that I've ever had. I like the feel of it and they've been VERY durable.


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By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 7, 2009
summit of Flattop Mtn. Anchorage, AK

The Petzl serenity I have developed sheath wear a little too quickly for the money.


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By Justin Cantrall
From Smoulder, CO
Nov 7, 2009
Ready to Rock!

Just a few months ago I started a thread that sparked a lot of conversation about this. I guess climbers like to obsess about their ropes. :) The thread can be found here.


The result (my decision): Sterling EVO Velocity 9.8; which BentGate doesn't sell.

So far I've been pretty happy with it. However, it seems to kink up easier than other ropes I've worked with. I think though, that this is not the rope's fault so much as it is my building belay redirects through my anchors. Someday I want to get a belay device that I can belay directly off the anchor and circumvent this issue. Maybe I just need to take the rope for a long walk. Today would be a good day for that. Sorry, I'm digressing...

I have probably 10-15 climbing days on the Sterling thus far, and other than the kinking, it has broken in nicely. No obvious sheath wear yet, and I certainly like the way it handles.

I can't say the same about my BlueWater Lightning 10.3. Within a month of purchasing, it had substantial sheath wear (maybe 15 climbing days?), although it handled great. It's still a very usable rope, but the fact that the sheath has worn so quickly on the BW makes me a little nervous.

Good luck on your decision.

Cheers,
JC


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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 7, 2009
On a delightfully exposed traverse on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart.

I bought the Edelwiess Onsight 9.9 ARC from Bentgate 2 years ago and really like it. It has held up to abuse really well! It's been everywhere from Indian Creek to the Cascades to Vedauwoo and is still in great shape.


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