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Lacing Mythos

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 23, 2007
Jonny Crane

Anybody know a good length for replacement laces in the La Sportiva Mythos? Thanks.

By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 23, 2007
Jonny Crane

Okay, I'm well on my way to answering my own question, I have found out how to re-lace the shoes at this webpage:

How to lace Mythos

But any information on overall length of lace used would be helpful.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From Orem, UT
Nov 23, 2007
Racking too much gear, as usual.

Go here and click "buy". You can then see a drop down with various sizes. Two colors are listed for the Mythos, both 150cm (approx 59").

I got replacement Mythos laces at my local gear shop.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Nov 23, 2007
Pitch 7

John,

Go to target or walmart and buy some damn laces... :-)

By DaveB
Nov 23, 2007
Maple Canyon, UT.

Have re-laced my Mythos MANY times using the official La Sportiva method (link above). 63" Jet Athletic Laces...even found them in Mythos purple! (Sports Authority, Dick's...basic sporting goods stores, etc.)

By John Langston
Nov 23, 2007

Excuse my ignorance here, but isn't the lacing one of many many reasons why one should not buy Mythos?

Lets look at it logically.

-For cracks they're ok until you wreck the laces and have to do the aforementioned process with sore and oozing fingers.

-They edge about as well as bunny slippers

-They aren't accurate at all, put them on a hold and pray.

-You need to get them at least 10 sizes too small if you expect them to fit in a year (maybe an exageration, but 2-3 sizes isn't).

-The rand peels off a new pair in something like 6 minutes.

Really, the fact that hard routes have been climbed in these is a testament to how little shoes actually matter and less a testament to the shoes themselves. I am everyday dismayed that these of all things are one of the most enduring shoes on the market.

John, cut your losses.

By Dave Holliday
From Louisville, CO
Nov 23, 2007
Natasha and I enjoying a romp in the snow on Marshall Mesa after the second blizzard of '06. Photo taken by Jo Holloway, Esq.

What's your preference for crack climbing, John? 5.10 Moccasym's seem popular at Indian Creek. (My apologies for the thread hijack.)

By Shumin Wu
Nov 23, 2007

I can answer that, for none offwidth: evolv quest or rage or some secret evolv shoes not yet available to the public. I unfortunately don't fit in evolv shoes that well, so my new favorite is la sportiva viper. Breaking it in on optimator was a bit painful, but I thought they were great for off-finger size cracks (and good for everything else non-offwidth) .

By John Langston
Nov 24, 2007

Dave Holliday wrote:
What's your preference for crack climbing, John? 5.10 Moccasym's seem popular at Indian Creek. (My apologies for the thread hijack.)



Let's roll with the hijack.

For Indian Creek, my faves are Evolve Quests. The only issue it that you can really wear through the fabric fast. What I've started doing to combat this is to pretty much cover everything that isn't rubber or laces with Freesole when the shoes are new. It adds a lot of durability. You can also have Evolve make you up a special rand so the Quest looks like a 5.10 piton on the front but climbs way nicer.

With the Quest, it basically climbs cracks like a Mythos but edges pretty well, doesn't stretch, and relaces like a normal shoe. It does seem stiffer at first but it softens way up, so don't be worried that it's a board in the store, it's really soft.

I tried Raves for a while but they never got beyond my B-game shoes. They didn't suck but don't have that added umph that the Quests do. They might be my favorite all around shoe when I'm not pushing my upper end.

For cracks outside of IC, I generally use my Quests as well but I have had a lot of success with the Bandit as well as it's a more precise shoe for those times you need to do something other than jam. I've fiddled around with the Talon, it's not great because the downturned toe is excruciating to jam. I've never seen a hold, chip, divot, blank wall, or oil slick it won't stick to though.

The secret shoe referred to in the above post doesn't exist. I do have a shoe that FMtech built off my design but the language barrier was too great and they didn't turn out well. I've also got a pair of Mega's that have a carbon fiber/kevlar shank. I think they're rad and can envision doing all sorts of rad things in them, but I've never actually worn them.

That's my crack climbing arsenal. Consider your thread hijacked bitchez!!

By Marc Horan
From Boulder, CO area
Nov 27, 2007
"Candyland" -- Photo by Michael Sallade.

I've got a pair of Mythos that have been sitting in my closet for close to 10 years and it'll probably be another 10 years before I put them on again, and then it will be for a fashion statement only (and to prove that I've been climbing for longer than those around me :))

I agree that you should cut your loses and move on.

On with the hijack:

Shumin Wu wrote:
evolv quest or rage or some secret evolv shoes not yet available to the public.


John Langston wrote:
For Indian Creek, my faves are Evolve Quests


People are actually climbing in Evolvs? I thought Sharma was the only one who was into those! Is their rubber worth a damn?

Personally I have a hard time straying from the tried and true La Sportiva shoes (because they fit me the best) with 5.10 rubber on them. Although my all-time favorite pair of shoes (for anything, including cracks is the 5.10 Ascent). But I don't really climb at IC, so maybe that's the difference.

--Marc

By John Langston
Nov 27, 2007

I've never had issue with Evolve rubber OR quality control.

La Sportivas OTOH, lets list them.

-Every single pair of LS I've owned have delamed rands in the first week

-I tore a heel off a new shoe.

-I've broken (beyond repair) 3 board lasts

That's about when I stopped using their shoddy and overhyped product. I did like the Kaukulators, but they haven't built a good shoe since.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Nov 27, 2007

Evolv rubber is great, I get all my shoes resoled at yosemite bum now. firm yet sticky.

It had a bad rep briefly a few years ago, and a buddy even got a pair with totally defective rubber, I guess they got a bad batch. But they changed the formula and the new stuff is great. stickier than sportiva, and more durable than 5.10.

I really like the mythos for crack climbing, but they are a sub par edging shoe for sure.

By Marc Horan
From Boulder, CO area
Nov 27, 2007
"Candyland" -- Photo by Michael Sallade.

John Langston wrote:
I've never had issue with Evolve rubber OR quality control. La Sportivas OTOH, lets list them. -Every single pair of LS I've owned have delamed rands in the first week -I tore a heel off a new shoe. -I've broken (beyond repair) 3 board lasts That's about when I stopped using their shoddy and overhyped product. I did like the Kaukulators, but they haven't built a good shoe since.


Right on. I've never put a pair of Evolvs on. Thanks for your opinion. I wouldn't call La Sportiva shoddy by any means, but I can appreciate your experience with them.

--Marc


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