Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
It's time for a new rope- suggestions?

  [ Forums > Climbing Gear Discussion ]
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>

 
By kirkadirka
From Golden
Sep 18, 2008

So my old rope is getting pretty worn and I am ready to get a new one.

I typically climb trad, often multi pitch. I also find myself at the crag clipping bolts fairly often. So I guess I am looking for an all-around rope geared more towards multi-pitch trad climbing.

I was thinking about something in the 9.1-9.7 range. Maybe an Eidelweiss rope? I have had good experience with them in the past and my local climbing shop has excellent prices for them.


FLAG
By Mark Nelson
Sep 18, 2008
Ice Passion<br /><br /><br />(Stuart Paul snapped this of me getting after it in Ouray)

gotta plug a good domestic product - PMI


FLAG
By Ryan Brough
From Arvada, Colorado
Sep 18, 2008
Chickenhead surfing at the beginning of S-Direct.

A lot of new routes are set up for 70m ropes. With the thinner ropes, you hardly notice the weight of the extra 10m. With a rope that long, don't bother with a middle mark that disappears. You will thank yourself for investing the extra money on a bi-pattern every time you rappel. Eidelweiss makes a durable 70m bi-pattern that doesn't cost a fortune. I think that the equivalent Bluewater rope handles better, but they cost more and my buddy had one with a defective sheath (his other Bluewater was fine). A rope bag will also help to extend your rope's lifetime.


FLAG
By Joey Wolfe
Sep 18, 2008

BlueWater Lighting Pro 9.7
This is a great rope.

I also recommend the slim line elite 9.8, same core thicker sheath.

also these ropes, as well as PMI, are made in Georgia.

I've used an Edelweiss and they are priced right but look at their stats.Compare similar sized ropes and you will see that Edelweiss, on average, has a higher impact force, higher weight and held less UIAA falls. You get what you pay for.


FLAG
By Justin Dansby
From GA
Sep 18, 2008
Me at the top.

I own an Edel and a Sterling. By far the Sterling is superior in abrasion resistance, weight, and clipping. I think mine is the ION 9.8 60m. The Fusion is 9.5 I think that's the newer one.


FLAG
By Galibier_Numero_Un
From Erie, CO
Sep 18, 2008

One of my regrets is that I did not replace Sterling with another one from them. My current rope brand need not be mentioned. I don't want to get into the details of a fragile sheath and way too much kinking.

The Sterling I owned had outstanding handling with no compromise in sheath durability. Every other rope I've owned had either a stiff sheath (great durability) with difficult handling, or a soft handling, fragile sheath.

The current line of top line Sterlings is broken into the Marathon and Biathalon series, with the latter being the bi-color version of the former.

There are so many great ropes out there, but in my admittedly limited experience, I will vote with my dollars for another Sterling the next time I need a new rope (sooner than I'd like based on my current rope's disappointments).

In general, I really like the American rope manufacturers, having had good experience with Blue Water, and just now getting to know a pair of PMI doubles. This comes from someone who used to be a Europhile about most of my "sporting gear".

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier


FLAG
By Evan Sloane
From Boulder
Sep 18, 2008

Another vote for PMI. I just bought my 1st rope from them a few months ago. Don't remember the name but it's the 9.4 70M. Excellent handling. I've mostly used it in Eldo, and so far it's holding up well. I'd definitely recommend it.


FLAG
By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 18, 2008
Sheepshead.  Cochise Stronghold.  Approaching Absinthe of Mallet in the snow.  December, 2001.

Ryan Brough wrote:
You will thank yourself for investing the extra money on a bi-pattern every time you rappel.


Second that. IMO, it is always worth the extra $ for bi-pattern.


FLAG
By mschlocker
From San Diego, CA
Sep 18, 2008
Me climbing in La Jolla.

Do not buy an Edelweiss rope. The last time some guy posted this question 3 of us told him not to and he did it anyway. They are less expensive but there is a reason for that.

I have really liked my Sterling Evolution Kosmos 10.2 and my Maxim Glider 10.2 is really nice too. The Edelweiss is too floppy and gets abraded worse than the others. It was a 9.9, but I still feel the other ropes were higher build quality.

I think that 10.2 is a good mix of qualities for a general rope. The skinny ropes handle worse, get caught up on rappel worse, and are harder to untie. Grams per meter is really more important since it is the weight we care about.

Bi pattern is a must and I will not buy another rope without it.


FLAG
By Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 18, 2008
A happy day in the snow.  Bart and Lisa had a hard time standing still for the photo.

I've had the 60 m Blue Water 9.7 mm rope (Lightening, I think) for 2 years. It handles nicely and has held up pretty well.

The next rope I buy will be a 70 m bi-color. I'm considering the Blue Water Lightening (9.7 mm) or the Mammut Infinity (9.5 mm). I'm curious if people would recommend one over the other.


FLAG
By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Sep 18, 2008
Belay on Cadillac Crag 6/6/09

depends on what type climbing you do, are you whipping on your rope on hard sport routes or are you dragging it over edges adn thru bushes on long trad routes?

I do more of the latter and on a store recommendation at Neptune, i got a 60 m Millet 9.8 - hands down love the rope, it's holding up really well to being drug around corners and over edges on low angle slab and has a real nice feel to it when clipping - and it's light weight.

My old rope was an Edelweiss - i bought it coz it was cheaper - which it was - you get what you pay for.


FLAG
By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Sep 18, 2008
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Get the Mammut. I have three of their ropes and they have great durability and handling. One of those three is an Infinity and it works great, trad, sport multipitch. At 9.5 mm the Infinity is not too thin and it lasts even with the occasional top rope session. Go with the 70m it will be worth it 5 years down the road when you trim a bit off the end of the rope and still have 60 meters left.


FLAG
By Bruce Neumann
From Bountiful, UT
Sep 18, 2008
Ish

For those out there seeking new rope information who may be noobs – the comment about shortening your rope after 5 years may not be the best idea. Buying another should be. Ropes loose their dynamic properties after each fall. The rope recovers, but never to what it once was. Each additional fall puts incrementally more stress on gear, biners, harness, and human subjects. It is also important to realize that a rope loses its dynamic properties sitting in storage (assuming it is properly stored). Time breaks down the dynamic properties. If in doubt of your rope, retire and buy a new one. Your life isn’t worth the cost.

Using a 5 yr old rope might be o.k. for a top roper, provided you’ve inspected it carefully and know its history well. But leading on a 5yr old rope is rolling the dice even if it hasn’t taken many falls. YMMV

I personally like Maxim ropes.


FLAG
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Sep 18, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Bicolor ropes can be a lifesaver, literally. There have been many accidents because of missing or misread middle marks. This doesn't happen with bicolor ropes.

Just recently in Spearfish canyon a veteran climber was sadly killed when (I believe) he mistook the markings on his rope.

I only buy bicolor ropes. The $40 extra dollars is worth the peace of mind to me.


FLAG
By Luke to Zuke
From Trying to go to santa cruz
Sep 18, 2008
explaining

lazer 70 meter


FLAG
By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Sep 18, 2008
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.

I buy for price, every time, and have never regretted it. That's just me.


FLAG
By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 18, 2008
Me, climbing Skink, contemplating the crux<br />Peterskill, the Gunks, NY<br />Photo by Beau Johnson

Andy Laakmann wrote:
Bicolor ropes can be a lifesaver, literally. There have been many accidents because of missing or misread middle marks. This doesn't happen with bicolor ropes.


Actually, believe it or not, this isn't 100% true. I have no doubt that bicolor ropes have prevented many, many, accidents, but I do know a climber who fell 10 feet by rapping off the end of his rope because the weave change on his brand new rope was in the wrong place. Just goes to show that nothing is 100% foolproof. I won't name the climber nor the manufacturer, since it's not my story to tell, so don't ask. He was seriously injured but is recovering. I did go home and check that the weave change on my brand new rope was in the real middle.

Kathy


FLAG
By matt bruton
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2008
Summit Torrey's Peak 14,267

Knots, knots, knots, in the ends of your ropes!!! If you find yourself on raps to long to knot the ends of your rope, buy a 70 m, or buy two!
Bruce is right "If in doubt of your rope, retire and buy a new one. Your life isn’t worth the cost."
They don't call it your life-line for nothing!
Sterling 70 m bicolor 10.4 the weight is worth the life( if you take care of it)
just bought the blue water 9.4 70 m DD dominator

The sterling has been abused: top roping noobies, long trad and sport routes, jugged, hauled, sand, dirt, roofs, sharp 90 deg corners, and has caught a few 20 footers. and no sheath slip, and minimal frays. well worth the weight! and $


FLAG
By kirkadirka
From Golden
Sep 19, 2008

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I broke down last night and spent the big $$ on a Bluewater Slimline Elite 9.8 70m. It almost feels too soft for a new rope.


FLAG
By Jim Matt
From Indianapolis, IN
Sep 19, 2008
Jim at the Boneyard TRing a route

Good discussion! I've owned an Edelweiss On-sight for a few years. I initially liked the rope...but we were climbing down in the Red a couple of weeks ago, and we discovered a core shot in it. I don't climb all that often (probably a dozen times a year) and am not that hard on the rope (ie I don't take that many whippers). So I won't be buying this one again:

http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD>>>>>

For sport climbing, I prefer a slightly thicker (10.2) rope...60M, bi-color preferable.

For other climbing (trad, alpine)...a 9.7-9.9 mm, 60M, dry treated bicolor rope is my preference.

I've owned a PMI, and really liked it.


FLAG
By kirkadirka
From Golden
Sep 19, 2008

I was sure to check the bicolor midpoint when I got the rope last night. Dead nuts in the middle; hopefully this rope lives up to its name.

My last rope was an Edelweiss and the sheath is starting to fray pretty bad and the core seems solid but softer in some spots. I guess I can't complain after 2 years of pretty intense use.


FLAG
By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Sep 19, 2008
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.

KathyS wrote:
I won't name the climber nor the manufacturer, since it's not my story to tell, so don't ask. Kathy


Kathy, not telling the climber I understand.

Not telling the manufacturer? That's a safety issue that all consumers should know about, right?

Doesn't a manufacturer making egregious mistakes that put the safety of their customers at risk deserve the negative attention, a la CCH, and the ensuing consumer pressure to correct the problem?


FLAG
By Jeff F.
From Black Hawk, CO
Sep 19, 2008
Raaaaaarrrrr!!111!!!!1!1eleven!!11111!!

Here's my $0.02 but being a noob, TIFWIW:

For craggin' I've used a Bluewater Dominator 10.2 x 60m. So far its held up well and served me well over the last two years. I have never fallen on it but have hung on it. I've since washed it once and it looks new. Pretty happy with it.

For alpine, I just picked up an Edelwiess Performance 9.2 x 60m and I love this rope! I got it at Bent Gate. Double dry treated, skinny and only $135! So far I've used it 5 times, and its been rapped on twice, by 5 climbers, no twists, no frays etc. Its super slick and glides through ATC's etc. really well. I'm quite happy with the rope.

Not sure if this adds to anything, or helps, but thought I'd offer that up.


FLAG
By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Sep 19, 2008
good times.<br />

I have blown out a few Blue water cords in a matter of weeks. Actually one in just 8 pitches. I am not too impressed by their cords anymore. I think I just bought into the hype of everyone else's praises. I have been climbing on PMI for the last few months and so far so good. All the ropes are dry treated regardless. Double dry for the ones that may encounter wet conditions.
Seem to be very durable and handle well. Soft catches.
The 9.7 Arete by PMI is pretty good. I use it for trad and sport and it is in good shape still. Going on 3 months. So I like it.
Good Luck!


FLAG
By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Sep 19, 2008
good times.<br />

Kirk Heatwole wrote:
I was sure to check the bicolor midpoint when I got the rope last night. Dead nuts in the middle; hopefully this rope lives up to its name. My last rope was an Edelweiss and the sheath is starting to fray pretty bad and the core seems solid but softer in some spots. I guess I can't complain after 2 years of pretty intense use.


A rule of thumb for retiring a rope... at least for me and some friends that have worked for rope companies.

If you take a soft spot on the rope or the area you think is suspect and bend it over creating a tight bight and cannot thread the end of the rope through it then its shot. chop it or retire it. Basically thread the needle.
. If you take a new cord and bend it. you will be able to thread the end through it very easily. most likely the hole/loop will be at least 2 times the diamter of the rope. If you cant thread it. The rope is too soft and it could be likely the sheath allowed alot of grime to seep into the core.
any who.
just some food for thought on knowing when a rope may need to see its last day soon.
I could be off by a mile or 3.


FLAG
By johnL
From Bermuda
Sep 19, 2008
Just me

jfox wrote:
I just picked up an Edelwiess Performance 9.2 x 60m and I love this rope! I got it at Bent Gate. Double dry treated, skinny and only $135! So far I've used it 5 times, and its been rapped on twice, by 5 climbers, no twists, no frays etc. Its super slick and glides through ATC's etc. really well. I'm quite happy with the rope. Not sure if this adds to anything, or helps, but thought I'd offer that up.


I've got one of these. I haven't used it yet but it seems really (really) stiff. It will break in I guess.


FLAG

  [ Forums > Climbing Gear Discussion ]
Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>