I am looking to buy my first Harness and I am not sure if I want to spend a lot on a harness, like one of the snappy new Arc'Teryx WST systems. Or if I should spend about the same amount of money on the REI Black Diamond momentum AL starter kit and maybe some biners or a crash pad for bouldering. Anyone have some sage advice?

I'm on my second BD Momentum: cheap, has all the features I want for trad climbing and serves well enough for ice, alpine, and sport. My advice is to try a bunch on and figure out what works for you.

Note that you don't normally use the harness/biners and the crash pad at the same time ;-)

You never know you can always aim for the crash pad when your partner falls asleep at the switch.

In that case, I'd aim for my partner...

I started with the BD starter kit about four years ago. It has served very well in everything from toproping to multi-pitch trad routes, to 5.11 sport to ropes courses. I've been wanting something beefier for hanging belays and extended comfort, but the momentum has held up like a champ.

IMHO, you should be able to get a very good all around harness for 50 bucks or under. Start modest and work your way up as your skills and needs progress.

Cheers
Evan

Something else to consider is that the heavier you are, the more the harness padding and comfort factor makes a difference. I bought my first el cheapo bd back in 90 for $25 but i only weighed 142lbs. That harness was nothing more than 2" flat webbing for a waist wrap and some 1" flat sling for leg loops but it was like a barcalounger to my skinny butt.

Now i'm 180 and it's not quite as comfy as it was back then (ya, still have it) - go figure... so i've upgraded. Point is, if you're a big guy/gal you may want to consider the comfort factor somewhat.

Aside from that Evan has the right idea:

Timmy O'Neill Petzl Harness Video

featuring trad guy, zen guy & aggro guy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSdgnuc7zCk

I've found a few features that I like, and dont like about Petzl and BD harnesses that I look for now.

I don't prefer adjustable leg loops. I know it's a selling feature for some ...etc but I'd just rather not have buckles catching my gear or snagging on rock, especially since after owning a harness with them, i never really adjusted them anyway.

I prefer Petzl's waist buckles because they are already doubled back and quite frankly quick and easy to put on and adjust. I have climbed on this design on and off since '00-'02 -ish and it's simple, safe, light and easy. I also like the lower end model for having one of these buckles instead of two. I prefer just one buckle.

I look for a haul loop. I like multi-pitch trad where you might be bringing up a rope behind you.

I like Petzl's gear loops. Especially on their new models. Large but not low, i've found other harnesses have significantly less room. Check out the rear two gear loops on one of Petzl's new harnesses, pretty spacious.

I DO NOT prefer Petzl's belay loops, however to Black Diamond's or some of the other brands. In a rather silly mental battle between the number of bar tacks I see, Petzl has two, and BD typically uses 4. After using a Petzl Corax for years, i'm convinced that they're more than adequate and safe, but if petzl used just one more bar tack i'd feel their designs would be perfection.

I've always found stiff, difficult to double back harness buckles to be a pain in the ass to really cinch, tighten and adjust.

I think spending $130 on an Arc Teryx harness, no matter how sweet it is, is money blown. I would buy a $50+ harness and one or two BD Camalots for that kinda bread. Just my $0.02

I bought a new SAMA harness from Petzl because:

1) The Corax I replaced did not have a haul loop, this newer version does. I like companies that make intelligent improvements. ( keep in mind i was using a corax before they "improved" them, the version without all the buckles and upgrades ).

2) I love the absence of, what I feel are useless buckles. I see this as an advantage over the higher priced version, call me crazy.

3) Gear loops drastically improved and widened.

4) The new waist and leg design is super breatheable(sp?) for those hot days where my lower back would normally be a sweat swamp.

5) The belay loop is more than fine.

6) $59.95 works for me.

http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportFamille?Famille=6

• ** discalimer *** I'm just a regular climber. I am not affiliated with petzl in any way.

Adjustable leg loops suck. They create pinch-points and the like. A nice teardrop-shaped leg loop like some Arc Teryx harnesses have is the best. I don't like the stiched-loop-attached-by-a-stiched-on-at-a-right-angle approach. Those also creates some interesting pinch-points at times, particularly while standing on small belay edges and leaning back on the anchor.

4 gear loops, not two. I rack gear on front loops, slings on the rear loops, and don't ever carry a gear-sling at all, except for bigwall-aid when I am wearing a chest harness anyway.

As for the make of those 4 gear loops, PLEASE... No molded plastic shit that pushes your gear forward- ever rack trad on those? It gets bunched up. That's fine for sport climbers with nothing but draws, but I have NUTS and I don't want my cams on top of my nuts every time I need them... (double entendre there).
A friend of Mine, Tim Davis, has one of these molded, angled things on a brand-new harness break (snap!) at the stitch point and turn his rack loose while climbing besides... Blech!

Haul loops are great, if for nothing more than putting your belay device & cordilette on while leading so that they are not tangled in your rack.

ArcTeryx Targa was my favorite after the ArcTeryx Skaha was discontinued in ~1994. I got the equivalent harness with adjustable leg-loops for cheap last fall and I regret it now. The ends of the webbing past the buckle are always flapping around, etc... and I expect the wear points to be the webbing over the buckle- leading to an early retirement. Without those buckles, chimneys would be better, but now they grab, tweak and abrade the webbing, caught between a rock and the buckle instead of the rock and my thighs, which are relatively soft...

I agree that a $130 harness is overkill. Like a $50 bottle of wine- it might be better, but is it worth 2.5X as much as the serviceable alternative? Well, it depends on your disposable income and how much you care about those differences...

WOW thanks for all the in-put. I think I am going to go with the majority opinion and get not expenceive harness (as long as it fits well). That will leave more money for beer. Thanks again to everyone, and keep it comeing I need all the information I can get. And if anyone is sluming in the Twin Cites area let me know I will share on of those beers with you.