By Evan1984
Aug 18, 2009
| Bobby Hanson wrote: I absolutely LOVE the Gri-Gri for multipitch! But if you are considering a first device, I would recommend the ATC Guide. Here are my thoughts on both: Gri-Gri pros * Very easy to belay a second directly off the anchor. Easier than the guide because the action is very smooth. This is especially nice if you and your partner are climbing fast because the second can literally run up the rock, and you can keep up. * In a pinch, you can haul with a Gri-Gri. You can haul with the Guide also, but it is less pulley-like. * Rappelling with a Gri-Gri is actually quite safe and easy once you learn how. * If you are caught in a desperate situation, you can easily rope-solo with a Gri-Gri. Gri-Gri cons * Price. * You cannot belay two seconds simultaneously like you can with a Guide. * Doesn't work with double ropes. * Weight. For me the advantages above all trump the weight of a Gri-Gri. In fact, when I'm climbing very long routes where I need to move fast, I always carry a Gri-Gri. * Price. ATC Guide pros * Auto-block mode. * Light weight. * Can belay two seconds. * Accommodates double ropes. * Easy smooth rappels. * Price. ATC Guide cons * No rope soloing. * Slower than Gri-Gri when belaying a second in Guide mode. * Requires one more locker than Gri-Gri (I admit, this is a small con).
You forgot my favorite combo: Cinch + standard ATC for raps/belaying. I pulled my argument for this set up from an old post I made where I broke down the weight differences of the common contenders. It is a slightly heavier rig than just a BD guide and biners:
Trango cinch+small locking D+ATC=288 grams
Pros: Very easy, one handed hauling of the second, easy to release, you have a full function, backup B/R device, option for an autolocking belay if you are concerned about the belayer getting KO'd.
Cons: Heavier, marginally bulkier, no simul-belaying
The search: "auto-locking belay devices" if you want to see the whole controversy haha.
Evan | 
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By Ryan Kelly
From the gym
Aug 18, 2009
| I use the BD ATC-III for anything up to three pitches. If it's longer than that I have an XP for backup.
| Best belay device ever!
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 18, 2009
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By Guy Humphrey
From Fort Collins CO
Aug 18, 2009
| I second the Cinch + ATC comb. It takes less energy to bring up a second with a Cinch than the other devices in auto-block mode. You also get the added safety of a locking device for lead belaying. |
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By Buff Johnson
From Coniferous, CO
Aug 18, 2009
| I use a Colt .45; it's pretty solid, a little heavy but gets the job done. I find it's a better motivator when dealing with any type of friction situation. You can also switch it to liquid mode for those extended stays at any given anchor, also a good friction reducer. I find it works as well with simul seconds and is also just wonderful at load releasing. |
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By Punter Brewster
Sep 6, 2009
| Chris Miller wrote: I agree that the Reverso is awesome, lightweight, and easy to use in autoblock mode. But it is a little bit of bitch to feed rope through when belaying a leader. If you're deciding which autoblock to go with, I think you are weighing the slightly heavier ATC vs the slightly hard to feed Reverso. You probably won't go wrong with either. Since getting my Reverso, I wouldn't be without it. My girlfriend uses a Gri Gri most of the time, but it stays on the ground for multipitch. Can't comment on the Cinch.
Huh, I've never heard anyone comment on the rev3 being difficult to feed before. It's my go to and I've never noticed a bit of feeding difficulty. |
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By squiddo
From Mountain View, CA
Nov 8, 2009
| I used to roll with the original Reversal and although I loved it for standard and autoblock belay, I found that for rapping it tending to introduce kinks in the rope. I'm now looking at a Reverso 3 and wanted to know, anyone out there run into this device kinking the rope? |
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By Punter Brewster
Nov 8, 2009
| Punter Brewster wrote: Huh, I've never heard anyone comment on the rev3 being difficult to feed before. It's my go to and I've never noticed a bit of feeding difficulty.
Guess I've come down with the 'ol foot in mouth disease. I used my rev3 with a 10.5 bluewater rope last week, and it was rough to feed. I previously had never used it with anything outside of the 9.4 to 10.1 range, which never had issues.
Squiddo- haven't had any real rope kinking issues with mine after nearly a year of use. |
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By squiddo
From Mountain View, CA
Nov 8, 2009
| Thanks Punter |
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By David Appelhans
From Golden
Nov 8, 2009
| The Trango B-52 is a very nice autolocking belay device too. If you are looking at the Guide and the reverso you should check out the B-52 too. It autolocks and is the cheapest of the three.
p.s. I own doubles. I bring up two seconds all the time on autoblock. It is easy to let out rope or lower with an autoblocking device. |
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By Greg D
From Redgardentown, Co
Nov 9, 2009
| All of the devices feed a little different. Size matters. Rope diameter, rope stiffness, rope cleanliness, rope slickness, etc all play a role. And, the braking biner matters too. I find a round stock biner works best such as the petzl attache. Reverso 3 had the most friction for lead belay and especially autoblock mode. So, it is best on smaller diameter and newer/slicker ropes. Belaying in autoblock mode on say a 10.0 stiffer rope on reverso 3 is exhausting. Best to have an ATC guide in this situation. Haven't tried the B 52 yet. David, lest get out and try your B52 later this week if the weather remains nice. Hope your thesis went well. |
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By Chris Miller
Nov 9, 2009
| Oh yeah, I probably should have mentioned that I'm using the Reverso with a 10.5 mm rope, which is why it's a little hard to feed sometimes. |
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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 13, 2009
| Buff, do you use the 40 or a smaller diameter? Do you run into feeding problems with that device? |
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By Mark Cushman
From Erie, CO
Nov 13, 2009
| Five followers? No problem.
| How to belay multiple followers up using a rack of belay devices
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 5, 2008
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By Lee Smith
Nov 13, 2009
| Cush, You have red "danger" lines on all 5 lockers. Very bad form man. Screw those gates shut dude! |
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By Larry
Nov 13, 2009
| Worse yet, the ropes are not even threaded! |
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By Mark Cushman
From Erie, CO
Nov 13, 2009
| Lee Smith wrote: Cush, You have red "danger" lines on all 5 lockers. Very bad form man. Screw those gates shut dude!
Sorry, Lee. I just threw five of my GriGris on that bear paw and quickly snapped that photo (on a pure white tablecloth) just to demonstrate the little-known technique. Of course you would want to lock down the lockers, that is, if you don't want to DIE!!! |
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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 13, 2009
| The nice thing about the paw is that you can use it to rumble. It even has a thumb knuckle for side jabs. |
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By Ed Wright
Nov 17, 2009
| Sport, trad, single pitch, multi-pitch whatever, I always have a gri-gri and an ATC Guide on my harness. |
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By Mark D.
From Santa Fe
Nov 17, 2009
| Kong's Gi Gi is popular in Europe and super light. |
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