so i've been climbing single pitch for about 5-6 years and living in a place with not much multi-pitch and no one to do it with. Now I live in CO and have both but i'd like some advice on something better than my old ATC. I've been looking at reverso's and ATC guide's, but what's your favorite multi-pitch belay device and why? any kind I should stay away from?
thanks for the tips
Ben

I'm a big fan of the ATC Guide. Using it in guide mode is a great way to bring up your second. And if you're climbing as a party of three with double ropes, you can use the guide mode to bring up both seconds at the same time.

I haven't used the new Reverso, but I believe it has pretty much the same capabilities as the ATC Guide. The old Reverso was vastly inferior, as far as I'm concerned.

As for something to stay away from, I'd give the Grigri a thumbs-down for multi-pitch, if for no other reason than the fact that you can't rap with it and so would need to carry a second device.

JL

ATC Guide..I had the new reverso, but I always seemed to have trouble feeding thicker ropes through. I know others will disagree, but that's my .02. ATC is a little heavier, but it's pretty smooth feeding.

I agree with both - new reverso is nice but sometimes a little *too* high friction. Still workable, though. Top-belaying off the anchor is sooooo much nicer.

I like the reverso, I guess I have one of the old ones, but I still like it. I use either that or just my BD ATC.

ATC Guide, though I'd like to try out a Reverso 3.

Get a device with autoblock mode for multipitch. There are many benefits.

Atc guide or reverso 3. I've owned and used both quite a bit. The reverso takes more effort to belay in auto block mode on thicker, stiffer less supple ropes. The guide takes a little more effort to control speed on rappel (at least for me @ 200lbs), but this is easily remedied buy adding a second biner on rappels.

Either pick by you favorite color or buy "american".

PS: You can rappel on a gri gri and cinch, but don't do it if you don't know how to.

I also highly reccomend the ATC guide. I also love my gri gri and often take it on multipitch, but why spend $70 on a gri gri when you could spend $30 on an ATC guide.

Here are some of the benefits of having an autblocking device for multipitch.

-can belay directly off the anchor (device facing down)(I would highly recommend redirecting your belay if not using an autoblock)
-can belay safely away from the device
-can go hands free quickly
-the ability to rig a 3:1 autolocking pulley if need be
-If you get hit on the head and get knocked out theoretically the second is still on belay
-can more safely belay two seconds at the same time on a doubled rope

Lately I've been taking nothing but a Trango Cinch(petzl grigri works too) and leaving the well-loved ATC guide at home.

I generally simul rap, it's faster. The Cinch easily allows me to stop mid-rappel to fiddle with the rope.

I haven't been using double or twin ropes though...

I have both an ATC Guide and a Reverso 3. I use the latter more often because it works well with my ropes and it's lighter. I'd say, choose based on which one works better with your ropes.

I agree that the Reverso is awesome, lightweight, and easy to use in autoblock mode. But it is a little bit of bitch to feed rope through when belaying a leader. If you're deciding which autoblock to go with, I think you are weighing the slightly heavier ATC vs the slightly hard to feed Reverso. You probably won't go wrong with either. Since getting my Reverso, I wouldn't be without it. My girlfriend uses a Gri Gri most of the time, but it stays on the ground for multipitch. Can't comment on the Cinch.

I absolutely LOVE the Gri-Gri for multipitch! But if you are considering a first device, I would recommend the ATC Guide. Here are my thoughts on both:

Gri-Gri pros

• Very easy to belay a second directly off the anchor. Easier than the guide because the action is very smooth. This is especially nice if you and your partner are climbing fast because the second can literally run up the rock, and you can keep up.

• In a pinch, you can haul with a Gri-Gri. You can haul with the Guide also, but it is less pulley-like.

• Rappelling with a Gri-Gri is actually quite safe and easy once you learn how.

• If you are caught in a desperate situation, you can easily rope-solo with a Gri-Gri.

• Price.

• You cannot belay two seconds simultaneously like you can with a Guide.

• Doesn't work with double ropes.

• Weight. For me the advantages above all trump the weight of a Gri-Gri. In fact, when I'm climbing very long routes where I need to move fast, I always carry a Gri-Gri.

• Price.

• Auto-block mode.

• Light weight.

• Can belay two seconds.

• Accommodates double ropes.

• Easy smooth rappels.

• Price.

• No rope soloing.

• Slower than Gri-Gri when belaying a second in Guide mode.

• Requires one more locker than Gri-Gri (I admit, this is a small con).

First of all, its just a hunk of Aluminum with 2 slots in it, how much difference can there really be? Why in the world would someone own both a atc guide and a reverso? I am the biggest gear whore out there and I dont even have either. I have the same old atc I have had for years. I was belaying multipitch routes with it for about 14 years before they came out with an autoblock, never had a problem. I would even eat and drink while doing it.
How often do you bring up 2 seconds at the same time? Do you even own, or even know someone who owns doubles? Do you really think you can ascend a rope with those things, 2 prusicks is a hell of a lot easier.
How many times has anyone out there had to lower a second on a locked off autoblock? Did the get knocked out? have a heart attack? I have never had that happen, and neither have any of you. so why debate the merits of how hard it is to do whith these devices, if you think you might have to lower a second, you better be using a standard belay device with a redirect. Get rid of your reverso, leave the cordolette at home, you really don't need all that crap, it just slows you down. The reality is that if you want to be good, climbing things that are above the average climbers ability or comfort level, you better learn how to be fast, and get by with less gear. If you want to be average (nothing wrong with that) then by all means build a perfect power point and select which device you want to use right then (you are carrying both right, you need a back up, you know)

http://www.climbmaxmountaineering.com/browseproducts/Kong-Gi>>>>>

Pathetic!

Springs,
What kind of routes are you climbing that the extra weight 3.6 ounces for the atc guide is too much extra weight? Seriously? Personally I think that the $30 for a guide is well worth it. Also, I like having a cordalette or 48in sling on my harness at all times. There's just too many variables out there to rely on using your rope for your anchor. I don't know how you guys are setting up your cord, but it never takes me more than a minute to set up and is much quicker to take down. So even on a 20 pitch climb that's less than 30 minutes.

I have the new Reverso and really like it. As others have said, there's a lot of friction generated! It makes belaying two followers on fatty lines a real pain. I've never tried the ATC-XP Guide.

I like both the ATC Guide and the Reverso 3. I usually carry two belay devices in case someone drops one. And there's always the munter hitch as a last resort.

Using either device to belay two followers is extra nice.

I respect the arguments regarding weight issues, but I think these couple of ounces are really of no consequence.