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Feb 22, 2011
Tiny backpack has lightweight shell, long underwear shirt, balaclava, emergency blanket, first aid kit including matches, and a few candies in with the pills. TP, 2 headlamps, usually cell phone, guidebook or route sheets, bail webbing, water, food. The pack protects spine in a fall.

On harness: tiblock, 2 cordalettes, bail biner, a few bail nuts, knife, rap rings, whistle ('though hasn't been very useful). Also a few lockers & free biners, spare belay device (autoblocking), tape, rappel back up loop/biner.

Often climb with 60m skinny rap line trailed or packed.

Some of this stuff is for when partner doesn't have what they should.

I get laughed at during the day, but never after dark or in the rain/snow.
woodcraft
Joined May 8, 2008
0 points
Feb 22, 2011
Rrrrr
When things get tough for me, thank goodness for my Easy Button Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Feb 22, 2011
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
hardcover version of freedom of the hills, a portable gas generator, and roadside flares John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2008
212 points
Feb 23, 2011
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
I have an "oh shit biner" that I add to my harness whenever I go adventure climbing. It's an old locking biner that I don't mind leaving, and on it I usually keep: 10ft of webbing, 10ft of cord, a couple aluminum rap rings, and a small serrated knife. I leaned my lesson a few years ago during my first epic retreat in a snow storm. I din't have any bail gear and ended up leaving several of my expensive sewn runners. Ugh.

I also pretty much always have small Cannon Powershot clipped to the back of my harness, with a couple extra batteries in the camera case. My headlamp takes the same size batteries as the camera, so that means I always have extra batteries for the headlamp.

If I ever buy a new chalkbag I'm going to get one that has a zipper pocket and always keep a couple chemical warmers in there for those chilly belays or accidental bivys. I should really get on that one, because I can think of MANY times I've wished I had some chemical warmers on me.
Bryan G
From Yosemite
Joined Nov 17, 2007
4,682 points
Feb 23, 2011
Ouray
6 pack of PBR. Mike Willig
Joined Jun 8, 2004
780 points
Feb 23, 2011
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
Mike Willig wrote:
6 pack of PBR.

I understand that there is safety in going "light and fast", but I think it's better to error on the side of caution and bring a full case of 24.
Bryan G
From Yosemite
Joined Nov 17, 2007
4,682 points
Feb 23, 2011
The Wasteland. East Stronghold, AZ  photo by Lin M...
What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left.

My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.
What's wrong with this picture?
What's wrong with this picture?
rob bauer
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 2, 2004
1,736 points
Feb 23, 2011
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
I've had mixed results with this technique...


John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2008
212 points
Feb 24, 2011
Imaginate
rob bauer wrote:
What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.


What are you going to be able to do in this scenario with two prussiks that you can't do by just using your feet and getting pulled/pulling yourself with the toprope? Do you carry runners to use to stand up with too? (no offense meant, I just am not seeing how having two prussiks on your harness is going to help that much). Can you explain?
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Feb 24, 2011
Rrrrr
rob bauer wrote:
What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.


the belayer could have solved that whole mess with a simple inline up-haul, or as David said, just capture any slack if the climber would just use their feet, it's not like they are hanging in free-space.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Feb 24, 2011
Who makes the best rice?
For emergencies of all sorts...


Seriously...

Sharp Knife in one pocket
Lighter in another pocket
Headlamp with fresh batteries around neck (Freaks out the safety nerds.)

You have a rack.
Presumably you also have a rope, slingas, couple lockers, and a belay device.
Use what you have.

Cut up cordalette and sacrifice biners to bail off of a couple stoppers or whatever.
Ascend with slings or chalkbag chord if desperate.

Light is right.
UncleBen
From The Briar Patch
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,534 points
Apr 10, 2011
I've had mixed results with this technique...
>
Seems kind of ballsy to try to catch a flying ice tool!
J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Apr 10, 2011
Tibloc, autoblock loop, a small knife, and a itty bitty headlamp. Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
11 points
Apr 10, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
BirminghamBen wrote:
For emergencies of all sorts...


Do you rack that mossy on your harness or do you have the shoulder sling?
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2011
Offwidth time
On my harness every-time I climb outside:
Extra Locker
pair of prussiks
rescue prussiks
rap ring
Spiderco blunt nose rescue knife
Whistle

on multi-pitch I'll grab I few more things from my pack or I'll just climb with it depending on the weather/climb/location.

in my bag:
Wilderness first aid kit
Headlamp
trailmix/ meal bar
water
knotted slings
quick links
lighter and matches
Luc
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
8,070 points
Apr 11, 2011
Dusk at the Rim Lounge, San Rafael Swell.
Pat Erley wrote:
I generally carry an extra set of titanium testicles (light weight) and an expedition dome tent for unexpected bivys, and a quilt for smoke signals.


+1

I would spend the extra bucks on a genuine 100% cotton quilt. These also double nicely as a parachute, if they're big enough.
Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Joined Mar 30, 2005
2,890 points
Apr 11, 2011
Manburger!!
In the Chalk Bag zipper pocket (I forgot how much I put in there):

---Smallest (Tie-dye) Swiss army knife on a small piece of cord.
---An almost used-up roll of climbing tape. Fold in half…
---Extra pair of disposable contacts
---Small packet of Neosporin/generic. (You can get individual little packets)
---$5….phone/food/BLM fees
---Petzl e-light…no packaging

Anything over single pitch…
---Bail biner---OLD Locker
---15ft web, 15ft 6mil cord, rap-ring
---Small pulley
---Tiblock
---2 small prussic…one a little longer than the other

In the pack……sometimes.
---Knife/Leatherman
----Water
---Headlamp
---Snacks
---Lighter/matches
---Whistle
---Rain gear and/or heavy-duty space blanket
------Totally Optional!!!!!
---Beer or Rocks (depending on route and who my partner is…..)
---Cell Phone (if service avail)
----Gloves
----SMALL First-aid kit
---- Casual day=Bread, cheese, salami

In the truck…
----My photocopy of the route beta (because I forget to bring it)
----HUGE First-Aid Kit
---Water and a couple of sodas and/or beer.
---Beef Jerky...Hidden from partner, if possible, until back at the car post-climb.
Chuck Manburger
From Denver,CO
Joined Apr 11, 2009
300 points
Apr 11, 2011
Thanks Hank Caylor!
So normally, how long are the Prussiks for emergency use? I would imagine one is long for leg loop and a shorter one to attach to the harness. Am I wrong?

Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Joined Dec 12, 2010
43 points
Apr 14, 2011
This is my winter emergency kit.

-Weed.
-iPod with The Office and Arrested Development episodes.
drpw
Joined Oct 27, 2010
0 points
Apr 14, 2011
Bocan
I've had mixed results with this technique...
>

hmmm...not trying to judge and I'm sure there weren't alot of options...buuuuut. That seem a little dangerous and maybe not the BEST thing to do? And that's me trying to put it nicely.

Lower me, and I'll take my partners tools.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
952 points
Apr 14, 2011
Rrrrr
Or just re-climb it with the one tool you have Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Apr 14, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on st...
Chuck Manburger wrote:
In the Chalk Bag zipper pocket (I forgot how much I put in there): ---Smallest (Tie-dye) Swiss army knife on a small piece of cord. ---An almost used-up roll of climbing tape. Fold in half… ---Extra pair of disposable contacts ---Small packet of Neosporin/generic. (You can get individual little packets) ---$5….phone/food/BLM fees ---Petzl e-light…no packaging Anything over single pitch… ---Bail biner---OLD Locker ---15ft web, 15ft 6mil cord, rap-ring ---Small pulley ---Tiblock ---2 small prussic…one a little longer than the other In the pack……sometimes. ---Knife/Leatherman ----Water ---Headlamp ---Snacks ---Lighter/matches ---Whistle ---Rain gear and/or heavy-duty space blanket ------Totally Optional!!!!! ---Beer or Rocks (depending on route and who my partner is…..) ---Cell Phone (if service avail) ----Gloves ----SMALL First-aid kit ---- Casual day=Bread, cheese, salami In the truck… ----My photocopy of the route beta (because I forget to bring it) ----HUGE First-Aid Kit ---Water and a couple of sodas and/or beer. ---Beef Jerky...Hidden from partner, if possible, until back at the car post-climb.


My new safety plan is to climb whatever route runs adjacent to Chuck ;)

Seriously, O-shit biner and two prussics. Adding headlamp and aluminum rap rings based on good suggestions here. I always bring both to the wall in my bag, but have yet to add them to my harness. Will do next time.
Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Aug 11, 2010
425 points
Apr 14, 2011
Chuck Manburger wrote:
---Extra pair of disposable contacts

Are you really planning on replacing a contact in the middle of a climb? That idea just gives me the willies. Dirty hands, dirty face, no mirror, yikes. I wear contacts, but I can get around without them - I'd probably bring glasses if I needed them to climb or rap.
Timothy Mark
Joined Aug 13, 2010
90 points
Apr 14, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron
Does anybody have any chalk bags with the zipper pocket they'd recommend? I mean, I know a chalk bag is a chalk bag, but... Derek W
Joined Jun 27, 2008
38 points
Apr 14, 2011
How I Send
Tool Catch = dumbest thing I have seen on ice since "THE FALL"

I typically carry a knife a prusik and tibloc (or second prusik) and lockers.

Comprehensive first aid kit, including diarrhea pills, H20 Treatment and lighter, you never know when you might need one for the safety meetings!

  • If you have an old style suspension helmet i.e. the petzl ecrin rock, you can fit a small first aid kit in the top.
Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 23, 2008
329 points


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