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By iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Nov 15, 2010
0

I like the std stuff + 1 for Mr Erik W's comments on prussics
some webbing a tibloc and a ropeman ,headlamp and plenty of lighters
couple cheepo quicklinks and skip the prussics some duct tape and a cheepo walmart tube tent it dont weigh shit and packs all of the above in the plastic pouch it comes in OH YEA TOILET PAPER !all together everything weighs in at just a RCH over a pound. I have a cord a let so I can cut it up if need be also.I don't bother with aspare belay device as a Muntner sp? hitch works just as well.

I don't bother with a 1st aid kit as there are plenty of clothes to cut up to stop your bleeding, splint ya up or wipe your ass w/ if you have the shits and forget the most important item the 1st essential of the 10 essentials "TOILET PAPER".so id rather use that weight for more important things Like a couple spare snickers bars and some water .

If im going alpine I add to the above an Esbit stove + Ti pot some hand warmers , emergency bivy sack + light wind shell jacket and pants. All this takes into consideration Im wearing my soft shells + base layers and carying my light weight Montbel belay parka in my pack.

This gear has served me well over the years.


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Nov 15, 2010
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

Usually I plan on carrying some extra webbing/biners. Then I forget to actually bring them along.

No e-gear substitutes for climbing efficiently and smart.


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By Pat Erley
From Gunnison, CO
Nov 15, 2010
me

Peter Pitocchi wrote:
What can you do with a Tibloc that you can't do (maybe slower) with a prusic? Also I carry compass/lighter/tape, no first aid kit.


Is the compass so you know which way is up and down? totally reasonable.

I generally carry an extra set of titanium testicles (light weight) and an expedition dome tent for unexpected bivys, and a quilt for smoke signals.


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By SlowTrad
From St Paul, MN
Nov 15, 2010

I haven't read through all the posts, but on anything longer than two pitches I bring a prussik girth hitched around two aluminum rap rings, and a TiBloc. My cordalette can be chopped for tat, along with the rap rings will allow me to bail if need be. With the prussik and TiBloc, I can ascend a rope or set up a haul if my partner needs a hand.


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By woodcraft
Feb 22, 2011

Tiny backpack has lightweight shell, long underwear shirt, balaclava, emergency blanket, first aid kit including matches, and a few candies in with the pills. TP, 2 headlamps, usually cell phone, guidebook or route sheets, bail webbing, water, food. The pack protects spine in a fall.

On harness: tiblock, 2 cordalettes, bail biner, a few bail nuts, knife, rap rings, whistle ('though hasn't been very useful). Also a few lockers & free biners, spare belay device (autoblocking), tape, rappel back up loop/biner.

Often climb with 60m skinny rap line trailed or packed.

Some of this stuff is for when partner doesn't have what they should.

I get laughed at during the day, but never after dark or in the rain/snow.


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By Buff Johnson
Feb 22, 2011
smiley face

When things get tough for me, thank goodness for my Easy Button


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2011
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

hardcover version of freedom of the hills, a portable gas generator, and roadside flares


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Feb 23, 2011
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

I have an "oh shit biner" that I add to my harness whenever I go adventure climbing. It's an old locking biner that I don't mind leaving, and on it I usually keep: 10ft of webbing, 10ft of cord, a couple aluminum rap rings, and a small serrated knife. I leaned my lesson a few years ago during my first epic retreat in a snow storm. I din't have any bail gear and ended up leaving several of my expensive sewn runners. Ugh.

I also pretty much always have small Cannon Powershot clipped to the back of my harness, with a couple extra batteries in the camera case. My headlamp takes the same size batteries as the camera, so that means I always have extra batteries for the headlamp.

If I ever buy a new chalkbag I'm going to get one that has a zipper pocket and always keep a couple chemical warmers in there for those chilly belays or accidental bivys. I should really get on that one, because I can think of MANY times I've wished I had some chemical warmers on me.


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By Mike Willig
Feb 23, 2011
Ouray

6 pack of PBR.


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Feb 23, 2011
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

Mike Willig wrote:
6 pack of PBR.

I understand that there is safety in going "light and fast", but I think it's better to error on the side of caution and bring a full case of 24.


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By rob bauer
From Golden, CO
Feb 23, 2011

What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left.

My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.

What's wrong with this picture?
What's wrong with this picture?


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Feb 23, 2011
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

I've had mixed results with this technique...



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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Feb 24, 2011
Imaginate

rob bauer wrote:
What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.


What are you going to be able to do in this scenario with two prussiks that you can't do by just using your feet and getting pulled/pulling yourself with the toprope? Do you carry runners to use to stand up with too? (no offense meant, I just am not seeing how having two prussiks on your harness is going to help that much). Can you explain?


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By Buff Johnson
Feb 24, 2011
smiley face

rob bauer wrote:
What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.


the belayer could have solved that whole mess with a simple inline up-haul, or as David said, just capture any slack if the climber would just use their feet, it's not like they are hanging in free-space.


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By BHMBen
From The Deeper South
Feb 24, 2011
Post climb snack... <br /> <br />Photo is of Strappo Hughes, taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982 by Russ Walling.

For emergencies of all sorts...


Seriously...

Sharp Knife in one pocket
Lighter in another pocket
Headlamp with fresh batteries around neck (Freaks out the safety nerds.)

You have a rack.
Presumably you also have a rope, slingas, couple lockers, and a belay device.
Use what you have.

Cut up cordalette and sacrifice biners to bail off of a couple stoppers or whatever.
Ascend with slings or chalkbag chord if desperate.

Light is right.


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By J.J
Apr 10, 2011

I've had mixed results with this technique...

>
Seems kind of ballsy to try to catch a flying ice tool!


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By Moof
From Portland, OR
Apr 10, 2011

Tibloc, autoblock loop, a small knife, and a itty bitty headlamp.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Apr 10, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

BirminghamBen wrote:
For emergencies of all sorts...


Do you rack that mossy on your harness or do you have the shoulder sling?


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By Luc
Administrator
From Montreal
Apr 11, 2011
Northwest Books

On my harness every-time I climb outside:
Extra Locker
pair of prussiks
rescue prussiks
rap ring
Spiderco blunt nose rescue knife
Whistle

on multi-pitch I'll grab I few more things from my pack or I'll just climb with it depending on the weather/climb/location.

in my bag:
Wilderness first aid kit
Headlamp
trailmix/ meal bar
water
knotted slings
quick links
lighter and matches


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By Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Apr 11, 2011
Leading the 3rd pitch of West Side Story.

Pat Erley wrote:
I generally carry an extra set of titanium testicles (light weight) and an expedition dome tent for unexpected bivys, and a quilt for smoke signals.


+1

I would spend the extra bucks on a genuine 100% cotton quilt. These also double nicely as a parachute, if they're big enough.


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By Chuck Manburger
From Denver,CO
Apr 11, 2011
Manburger!!

In the Chalk Bag zipper pocket (I forgot how much I put in there):

---Smallest (Tie-dye) Swiss army knife on a small piece of cord.
---An almost used-up roll of climbing tape. Fold in half…
---Extra pair of disposable contacts
---Small packet of Neosporin/generic. (You can get individual little packets)
---$5….phone/food/BLM fees
---Petzl e-light…no packaging

Anything over single pitch…
---Bail biner---OLD Locker
---15ft web, 15ft 6mil cord, rap-ring
---Small pulley
---Tiblock
---2 small prussic…one a little longer than the other

In the pack……sometimes.
---Knife/Leatherman
----Water
---Headlamp
---Snacks
---Lighter/matches
---Whistle
---Rain gear and/or heavy-duty space blanket
------Totally Optional!!!!!
---Beer or Rocks (depending on route and who my partner is…..)
---Cell Phone (if service avail)
----Gloves
----SMALL First-aid kit
---- Casual day=Bread, cheese, salami

In the truck…
----My photocopy of the route beta (because I forget to bring it)
----HUGE First-Aid Kit
---Water and a couple of sodas and/or beer.
---Beef Jerky...Hidden from partner, if possible, until back at the car post-climb.


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Apr 11, 2011
Thanks Hank Caylor!

So normally, how long are the Prussiks for emergency use? I would imagine one is long for leg loop and a shorter one to attach to the harness. Am I wrong?


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By drpw
Apr 14, 2011

This is my winter emergency kit.

-Weed.
-iPod with The Office and Arrested Development episodes.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2011
Bocan

I've had mixed results with this technique...

>

hmmm...not trying to judge and I'm sure there weren't alot of options...buuuuut. That seem a little dangerous and maybe not the BEST thing to do? And that's me trying to put it nicely.

Lower me, and I'll take my partners tools.


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 14, 2011
smiley face

Or just re-climb it with the one tool you have


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