I have three wired hexes (Metolius curved #8,9,10) that I keep on my rack. Aside from being pro, they make a great hammer when fiddling with a stuck nut. I would like to convert them to slung hexes.

Is there any reason I cannot or should not do this?

If this is something worth doing... I have a few questions.

What type of cord or sling do you recommend using? My research (John Long's Climbing Anchor Book) leads me to using 5.5mm Spectra or Gemini cord.

What is a good cord length from back of the hex?

What hole diameter do I need to open the holes to?

What countersink angle and diameter (or depth) should I use to relieve the holes?

I would like to use the existing wire holes. Is there a minimum center to center distance on the holes that I should use so that I don't bend the cord around too tight a radius?

Any other things I need to consider?

Thanks,
Glenn

Glenn,

You didn't mention why you wanted to replace the wire. I assume it's damaged; otherwise why do it? The existing holes should be large enough, don't you think? Spectra is some really strong stuff.

The holes in the curved hexes do need to be opened up to use cord. The last time I did this I used Blue Water Titan 5.5mm cord. I don't remember the drill size I used, but I finished the holes by VERY lightly cleaning them up with a 3/4" counter sink and then fine Scotch bright. Make sure use a triple fisherman's knot to tie the spectra cord. It's also a good idea to weight the cords after tying them to pull them tight.

Those are the hex sizes I like, too. I also dislike the wires on them. My hexes are set up with fairly long slings-- they hang about 18 inches (i.e. on approx 36" loop, plus knot; I use a shoulder sling, so this is not a big issue, YMMV). This allows them to be clipped without a runner or quickdraw. I guess nowadays you would likely use the 5.5 kevlar stuff, but I kind of like ordinary nylon or perlon. The key when drilling them out is to get a size that does not significantly compress the sling rope. (I recall an old research article from the 70s showing that you lost a bunch of strength if drilled too tightly.) On the other hand, you don't want them so loose that they slide around on the sling by themselves.

Why do you want to replace the cable with cord or sling? The wire is much more durable, cut resistant, and will generally last the life of the gear. Cord or sling is flexible, less durable, easier to cut, and it is generally more difficult to place as an overhead piece; due to the lack of stiffness that a cable would provide. The need to replace cordage and sling every five years or so gets expensive. The only reason that I can see that would justify replacing a cable with cord/sling is if the cable is frayed, rusted through or otherwise compromised. What would be the cost of a new piece in regard to cost of cordage or sling. My guess is that buying new would be the most cost efficient bet. You will need 5 foot of 5.5 cord per unit. That adds up to $8-$10 per piece X 3 replacements over the life of the gear (15 years). What would the replacement cost? I am certain that you are better off with cable over sling. I hope this was helpful.

I see advantages and disadvantages to both styles. I agree that having the hexes on a wire has helped me several times with a high or awkward placement. The slung hexes seem to be a little more versatile and less prone to walking due to rope drag.

Hexes WALK? That's a new one.

Hexes, like stoppers, will get pulled out of placement by rope movement without a sling.

I've reslung a couple small old chouinard hexes without drilling at all. It might depend on the actual hexes you have, but I don't think that drilling is always necesary. I used 6 mil. cordalette. That supercord stuff would probably work better. Just keep cork screwing it through the holes. Also, on bigger hexes, I like a long sling because you can wrap it up inside itself for racking and them unfurl it so you don't need a sling.

Cheers

Hexes, like stoppers, will get pulled out of placement by rope movement without a sling.

I've reslung a couple small old chouinard hexes without drilling at all. It might depend on the actual hexes you have, but I don't think that drilling is always necesary. I used 6 mil. cordalette. That supercord stuff would probably work better. Just keep cork screwing it through the holes. Also, on bigger hexes, I like a long sling because you can wrap it up inside itself for racking and them unfurl it so you don't need a sling.

Cheers

I guess its a semantics game.

My bad... "walk" was the wrong word.

-Glenn