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Climbing shoes to complement Anasazis?

  [ Forums > Climbing Gear Discussion ]
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By jesco
From Niantic, CT
May 21, 2009
Hangdoggin Narcissus...until next time.

I've been climbing in Anasazis for years and love them. They fit like a glove and feel great on small edges and pockets. I got a pair of Mocasyms to add to the quiver but have been pretty disappointed. The toe feels sketchy on small edges that would feel bomber in my Anasazis. I'm looking for another pair of shoes for steep sport routes and overhanging boulder problems. I tried the pontas on but the toe box felt so stiff - like I wouldn't have much feeling on edges. Haven't tried on the Optimus prime yet and I'd like to find a pair of Muiras to try. Anyone have any suggestions on what shoes I should be honing in on? What do people think of Evolv's rubber?


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
May 21, 2009

jesco wrote:
I'm looking for another pair of shoes for steep sport routes and overhanging boulder problems.

LaSp Testies...


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By Dave Cummings
From Louisville, CO
May 21, 2009

Muiras or testerosas


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By jesco
From Niantic, CT
May 21, 2009
Hangdoggin Narcissus...until next time.

Thanks for the suggestions. What would you say the pros/cons are to each? How would you say they're different?


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By Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
May 21, 2009
World Champion NY Giants logo

Keep those mocs for crack climbing. They are great in hand to finger sized cracks.


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By Dave Cummings
From Louisville, CO
May 21, 2009

The Muiras are very similar to the Anisazi shoes. The Muira VS is a little more downturned. The Testarosa and Solution shoes are even more downturned


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By G8rFtBall
May 21, 2009

I have also been climbing in the Anasazis for years. I recently replaced them with the new Evolv Pontas (velcro). I wore both the anasazi velcro and lace up. They were great for me, except the heel is too aggressive. I couldn't get my heel to touch the back of the shoes no matter how hard I tried. I finally got sick of the dead space and worthless (for me) heel hooking capability of the shoe.

I looked at a ton of shoes, and like others on this site I thought the testarossas were awesome (my number 2). They were just a little too downturned and toe smashing for my taste. I climb hard and steep, just not a ton of overhanging routes, which the testarossas should be great for.

I would highly suggest trying on a pair of the pontas shoes. They are only found locally at boulder mountaineering, or online at REI. Believe it or not they are shaped exactly like the anasazis, just with a straighter heel cup. They are also stiffer in the toe than the anasazis, so the microedging is even better.

Good luck.


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By Ryan Williams
From Raleigh, NC
May 23, 2009
Belly Button Window, 7b, Bukit Keteri, Perlis, Malaysia

If you like the Anasazis' fit, try the Evolve Predator. I love my Anasazi Velcros and just got a pair of Verdes and like them even better. The 5.10s and the Predators both fit my foot very well. While the 5.10s are good for everything, and are probably the best shoe I've ever climbed in, the Predators are only good on climbs past vertical, and aren't worth it unless you do a lot of super steep bouldering and sport routes. They have a very agressive shape. They don't smear well and you'll never get them into a crack. BI wouldn't reccomend them as your only shoe, but if you are looking to compliment the Anasazis, the Predators are great.


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