By Peter L K From Cincinnati, OH May 19, 2009
| I don't get why a company like Metolius doesn't buy them out, use their designs, and build them properly. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 19, 2009
| Dave Cummings wrote: yea that is the number, try again a few times and the receptionist will pick up
Thanks. I tried again and the receptionist said they didn't get either email (she checked right then and I heard the AOL "You've got mail!" thing). She asked that I send them again and for whatever reason she wasn't interested in taking my contact ino, even after explaining it was about a pair of failures. Not sure what's up with that. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 19, 2009
| Russ Walling wrote: So, it would follow that since Jan of '06, any unit after that date should be stamped tested, and none before that date would be stamped. But, how is it that there are pics of and I've heard of aliens stamped "tested" have broken at low loads? I can't explain it. Maybe it has something to do with the angle of pull and an overheated cable insertion? Straight pull = ok to xxx lbs, but an angled pull, as in a placement, snaps off the super rigid cable/head interface at below the tested amount?
Only explanation I can come up with is that not just 1/06 (EDIT) and later (/EDIT) cams are stamped. I believe they also stamped ones manufactured prior to 1/06 with Tensile Tested when they were sent back for evaluation during the recall. Perhaps you're right that the TT ones that failed were loaded funny or above what they were proofed to? No idea, but I will say I'm not very fond of the brazed junction. He gave Rich an explanation for not swaging or having a weep hole, but frankly I don't agree with his rationale. But that's neither here nor there.
Actually, now that you mention it the Red I did a while back (11/06 date stamp) does have the Tensile Tested stamp and it failed almost at spec. For whatever that's worth. :-/ |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ May 19, 2009
| Aric Datesman wrote: BTW, 1750lb is only 7.78kN and I've hit 5kN bouncing on a runner without too much effort. Didn't feel too good, but not too hard to do. Falling onto a daisy could probably hit 7.78 easily (and feel even less good).
I've measured 8.9 kN falling only 1 foot on a daisy. It felt horrible.
...but I doubt you're going to get this much force in a typical leader fall. The largest forces I've measured in factor 1 falls is 4kN (using a plate) and 4.8kN (with a grigri). |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ May 19, 2009
| Peter Kananen wrote: I don't get why a company like Metolius doesn't buy them out, use their designs, and build them properly.
Maybe CCH isn't for sale. |  FLAG |
By Erik W From Boulder, CO May 19, 2009
| Does anyone know if the earlier Aliens (1999,2000) underwent any sort of testing? Any QC issues for those earlier years? |  FLAG |
By JLP From The Internet May 19, 2009
| Aric Datesman wrote: Perhaps you're right that the TT ones that failed were loaded funny or above what they were proofed to? Check out "miller slip metallurgy" on Google.
This "testing" likely weakens some percentage of the braze joints.
ie, a part that may normally break at 2klbs, gets tested to 1.7klbs, next loading to 1.5klbs breaks it. etc.
I think Russ is also at the same time referring to parts where the wire was overheated and/or the part loaded at a slight angle. However, the same effect may apply. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 19, 2009
| Well, Nadia @ CCH seems to be under the impression that they've been encouraging customers to send in all units not stamped Tensile Tested, but damned if I've ever seen anything that didn't say just ones that fell within the recall (and I follow RC, MP, ST, Gunks and keep an eye out for these sorts of things). Heck, even their original recall and subsequent addendum say only send ones within the recall period.
I emailed back emphasizing that their paperwork clearly states earlier units are uneffected and need not be tested and that it would be good for them to publicly state (possibly a second time...?) that all units not stamped Tensile Tested should be sent in.
It also seems that she missed the point that the Purple exhibited a new failure mode not covered by the recall and would not have been caught by their testing. I reiterated this point and strongly encouraged her to begin an investigation about it.
I don't think there's much more I can do about this, except wait and see if they get a clue and do something about it. Since they haven't asked for me to send them back (you'd think that would be their first response), I'm going to go ahead and do some hardness testing on the lobes and axles.
-a. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 19, 2009
| I don't know whether to laugh or be upset. Email from Nadia (Waggoner) is that I can call Dave and talk with him if I want.
Funny, I seem to recall doing exactly that, in addition to sending all sorts of documentation. I find the complete lack of interest in a failure predating the recall by 2 years and another but completely different type of failure during the recall period astounding.
Sigh.
I'll have the pics and whatnot posted tomorrow, but most likely will only be posting them to RC as I don't want to answer questions on half a dozen different forums. I'll post a link here when they're up. |  FLAG |
By Joel Andersen May 19, 2009
| I think someone asked a similar question earlier in the thread, but Aric, do you have any idea what the most recent manufacturing date is for a failed alien?
edit: OK, so I re-read this thread and it looks like it was you that asked the (somewhat similar) question that I refer to above. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 19, 2009
| Yup Joel, I think it was me... :-)
I've heard of other failures but don't recall ever seeing hard evidence of it. I've also heard of cams being sent to CCH for testing and coming back with seemingly new stems using the old sling, tubing, axle, trigger and lobes with no mention of there having been a problem or failure, but again I've not seen it in person and don't personally know the person who made the post.
That said in one of the emails from Nadia today she stated that they can and have replaced the stems on Aliens if it is asked for, but she made no mention of whether this has ever been done without informing the cam's owner.
Its way past bedtime now, so I'm turning in. I kicked my report over to the other Mods on RC for review and will probably have it posted ~noon EST tomorrow (which is really today, seeing as its almost 1am here....) |  FLAG |
By Joel Andersen May 20, 2009
| vegastradguy wrote: because they dont need to- CCH doesnt actually have a patent or trademark on its design, just the internal springs. the original master cam designs were mirror images of the aliens- the differences between the production cams on the shelves and the original design are changes that Metolius made because they didnt feel the alien design was strong enough to meet its standards.
I was going to reference your Mastercam review on RC.com, since I recalled that you had mentioned this very thing about Metolius inherently not finding the alien design to be suitable for their standards. |  FLAG |
By JASON A. May 20, 2009
| no one would ever buy cch's design. they are made very cheaply due to a variety of factors. if a company like metolious were to make them, they would cost $100. it pays to own a company in laramie. |  FLAG |
By Beached Nuts From Bermuda bitches May 20, 2009
| I think the actual numbers I heard were that if they were made in China and imported, they couldn't be sold for less than $120-$130.
Redneck meth-heads are more econimically viable than outsourcing in this case.
I wonder if the reason there are no pre recall failures (that I know of) is that so few people fall (just take) or that a lead fall generates <5kn so it stays together.
I'll probably whip on mine yet again today. |  FLAG |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield May 20, 2009
| johnL wrote: I'll probably whip on mine yet again today. Again? Alpine start, John? |  FLAG |
By Beached Nuts From Bermuda bitches May 20, 2009
| Are you implying that I sleep, Mr. Mitchell? |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 20, 2009
| johnL wrote: I think the actual numbers I heard were that if they were made in China and imported, they couldn't be sold for less than $120-$130.
That's the number I've gotten from one of the manufacturers, who has either tried to buy CCH or been approached by CCH to buy them out 4 times over the years. With the brand being pretty much ruined for most people, the patents on the springs and trigger expired, high manufacturing cost and new competitors in this niche market (C3, Mastercam, etc) someone buying CCH doesn't make financial sense.
johnL wrote: I wonder if the reason there are no pre recall failures (that I know of) is that so few people fall (just take) or that a lead fall generates <5kn so it stays together.
I'd say that quite possible. The Red had a tweaked head, which I'm assuming happened in a fall. Don't know for certain though, as it was bootied gear. All I know is that its really easy to hit 5kN bouncing on a runner, so bouncing around on a piece that won't hold that isn't such a good idea. |  FLAG |
By J. Albers From California May 20, 2009
| Quick question. I climb on both Aliens and TCU's so I don't feel that I have much of a bias (I really do like Aliens a lot). That said, the quality control at CCH freaks me out a bit. Sending CCH my 5 year old'ish cams for them to do pull testing doesn't make me feel any better, I guess because in essence you are asking the manufacturing company that you don't totally trust, to check their own work.
My question then is, does anyone know of a place where you can send your cams to be pull tested that is NOT CCH? That would be great info.
Thanks. |  FLAG |
By Russ Walling From www.FishProducts.com May 20, 2009
| J. Albers wrote: My question then is, does anyone know of a place where you can send your cams to be pull tested that is NOT CCH? That would be great info. Thanks.
We were pulling them for a while.... to about 1200lbs (after that cam damage might show up) just to see if the heads would pop off. (and some did!)
Not really doing it any more, but, if you really need some pulled, send me an email and I'll get ya'll some more details.
EDIT: oh yeah... Good stuff Aric! |  FLAG |
By J. Albers From California May 20, 2009
| Thanks for the info. Russ. |  FLAG |
By Kevin Sainio From Durango, CO May 20, 2009
| It is amazing how far we have come. When I first discovered the brazing issue over two years ago, I was met with immense skepticism, called a liar, accused of photo shopping pictures and said to have a personal grudge against CCH. Very few of the climbing community believed that it was true that a cam could break, and even worse, true of there beloved Aliens. My one and only goal in sounding the alarm was to raise the issue and keep climbers safe. I believe I have done that. It makes me happy to read the previous 2 pages of this thread and see no finger pointing, no name calling, and best of all, climbers coming together to keep others safe.
Aric, thanks for taking the time to pull test. Obviously there are still plenty of unsafe cams out there. Good luck getting a legitimate response.
Russ, thanks for pull testing when no one would.
I caught a lot of flack for not giving CCH time to handle the issue two years ago and for posting here and on RC.com. Looking back at the whole debacle, I wouldn't change a thing, because I believe the one goal was achieved, raising awareness and keeping climbers safe. If it had to be done online to be achieved, than so be it.
Thanks for letting me clear my head,
Kevin
|  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 20, 2009
| J. Albers wrote: Quick question. I climb on both Aliens and TCU's so I don't feel that I have much of a bias (I really do like Aliens a lot). That said, the quality control at CCH freaks me out a bit. Sending CCH my 5 year old'ish cams for them to do pull testing doesn't make me feel any better, I guess because in essence you are asking the manufacturing company that you don't totally trust, to check their own work. My question then is, does anyone know of a place where you can send your cams to be pull tested that is NOT CCH? That would be great info. Thanks.
Sorry for being away guys, the monkeys on RC are keeping me hopping.
Dunno where to send them as I'm out of that business for a while to avoid accusations of bias, but I will say that Nadia from CCH tried the "look they were old units, its no big deal" thing on me. 5 years is 2004 and smack in the middle of the recall.
Sigh. |  FLAG |
By Aric Datesman May 20, 2009
| Kevin Sainio wrote: It is amazing how far we have come. When I first discovered the brazing issue over two years ago, I was met with immense skepticism, called a liar, accused of photo shopping pictures and said to have a personal grudge against CCH.
That was you? Good news- I'm getting treated the same way by CCH. Unfortunately for them I have pics and datalogs to back up my claims.
BTW, it certainly helped that I'm a mod over on RC and had it happen at the NRR. Lots of people saw it happen and I then spent several hours talking with Mal@Trango about what to do. From there I tossed it to the other mods & management @ RC and we spent yesterday and today editing the writeup while I went back & forth with CCH about getting them to take ownership of the issue and handle it correctly. That's not going to happen, but at least I have lots of evidence that I made way more than a good faith effort.
BTW2- I absolutely support what you did.
-a. |  FLAG |
By Kevin Sainio From Durango, CO May 20, 2009
| Aric,
Sorry, I just got to read your report. Although the aliens that you tested may have failed, I just wanted to let you know that the first one was not a brazing failure. It looks to me like the cable broke. Below is a photo of an alien when the brazing fails. When that happens, there is no cable left in the head.
Kevin
|  FLAG |
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