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Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Personal
Hot off the presses...

Rock and Ice Review Below...

The TNB eBlast Round 54

Putty Nutz
Last week, I wrote about how climbing standards are always changing. How it's no longer surprising to read about girls climbing 5.14, or that a prepubescent teen from some Eastern Block training compound can redpoint three hard 5.14's in a day.

But there's more. In addition to my role as weekly eBlaster and editorial shit-talker, I also get to review and test a lot of mostly cool, sometimes lame, and rarely innovative climbing gear. In the last four years I've been here, I've seen climbing gear take leaps and bounds, and sometimes fall flat on its face. Shoes have gotten better--or maybe there's just a lot more of them. Ropes, like entrees in New York City, have gotten smaller and more expensive. Everything has gotten lighter, more breathable and comes in an array of colors! There's now even a helmet that folds up into itself and a carabiner that has 2 (two!) gates (see Field Tested, Issue 169, coming out any day now).

But definitely the craziest gear I've seen so far has to be C.A.M.P.'s new Putty Nutz--passive pro that will reshape your mind (especially if it's easily malleable to begin with). Putty Nutz are basically like bashies that you can mold with your hands to fit into cracks. It's the first pro I've see that doesn't use metal (except for the swage). Apparently, the head of the nut is made from something called d3o, which is soft(ish) to touch, but under impact, the molecules of d3o instantly bond together and become rigid. D3o is already being used in ski-racing body armor and in the knuckles of a couple Black Diamond ice-climbing gloves (out next winter). C.A.M.P., maker of the world's lightest gear, took the concept a step further and laser-attached the d3o material to a metal swage.

The whole idea of taking falls onto what is basically sexed-up silly putty just seems--well, not only silly, but totally crazy. However, it is climbing gear, meaning it's certified, so it has to be safe, right?

Normally, if I have to review climbing gear that I'm wary of (despite whatever CE stamp it has), I just make one of my interns use it and fall on it a few times, just to be sure it's safe for Me--the more important, less replaceable of the two--to climb on.
Unfortunately, all of Rock and Ice's interns are currently having a group bonding adventure in Mexico with Uncle Jefe. There is, however, one other intern lurking around the office all by himself. However, when he saw the Putty Nutz on my desk, he made some limp excuse about having to go to the bathroom and promptly fled the Valley, without my permission, to climb in Moab for the weekend.
So, with the little ones gone, I resorted to the next best option for testing potentially lethal climbing gear: my girlfriend Jen. Jen climbs 5.13d, but doesn't trad climb. This served two purposes: One, she's not going to fall on 5.10d, and Two, she doesn't know that trad gear normally isn't made of orange putty.

"What are these things," Jen asked, at the base of this local 5.10d thin seam in a granite face.

"C.A.M.P.'s new Putty Nutz," I said. "You just squash them into the crack, give them a hard tug, and they set into place."

"That's it?" Jen said. "I thought it was supposed to be hard to place trad gear."

"Naw, that's just what the old bald fatsos say to fool young sport climbers like you, so you don't piss all over their ‘proud' routes. Trust me. Trad climbing is actually really easy."

"That makes sense. This is only 5.10d," Jen said. "OK, you got me?"

"Yep, go ahead," I said. Jen started up the thin seam with the Putty Nutz and a few extra TCUs, just in case. "Hold on," I said. "Better give me a hug before you go." She did, and I secretly clipped a few more cams to the back of her harness, just in case.

And with that, she was off, firing the 5.10d easily, thank god. She lowered off some fixed anchors, looking a bit rattled.

"That was scary," she said. "Trad climbing IS hard!"

"You did great. What did you think of the Putty Nutz?"

"I don't know. The kid's I watch might like them," she said. (Jen's a nanny). "I think I'd rather just clip bolts."

It was then my turn. I launched up the slabby 60-foot face, climbing on Jen's pre-placed gear, inspecting each of the five Putty Nutz she had placed. They were a bit misshapen, mashed into each seam, but when I tugged hard on them, they orange blob noticeably changed, consolidating into something firm and hard. It was really, really cool.

I reached the anchors without an issue, then lowered and cleaned the nuts out of the crack by pulling steadily--they stretched a bit until, pop!, the nut busted, leaving the rock completely intact and ethically safe and sound.

It was fun little gear-testing session, but Jen and I packed up and headed out to Rifle for the rest of the day. We decided we'd rather spend our time actually having fun than playing with overpriced toys for adults (essentially what trad gear really is).

Which, I guess, is the difference between trad and sport climbers. One group likes to play with toys, and the other likes to try hard. One gets high by feeling righteous over ethically boosted Gumbyatrics; the other gets high by hang-dogging. Neither is technically better than the other, and I like both more or less the same.

But it just seems like trad climbing gets ridiculous when you have to rely on contrived runouts, nested RPs and, in this case, silly putty, to make slab climbing exciting.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 20, 2007
71 points
Apr 2, 2008
No way............. Joey Wolfe
Joined Jan 8, 2007
1,142 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: 2003
You're a day late. Ben Kiessel
Joined Mar 9, 2004
2,904 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing in La Jolla.
April fools? If not, revolutionary. I wonder how they would work when you just need a rest. Kind of exciting, fall trying or die resting. mschlocker
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 2, 2006
3,381 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Anyone remember the Hilti bolt gun of 1998 or so? They had a nice, fake web address as well. But this one is slicker, as the links on the faux web page actually work and the address looks almost legit. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,538 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee outside of JTNP
Wow, someone has WAY too much time on his or her hands. James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Joined May 7, 2002
2,632 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving it up in the Creek!
Ok, I believe you're not joking!

Sign me up if you need any more guinea pigs to take whips on these. Though I might back it up with some metal at first :-p

New Soft Helmet Turns Hard in Crash

Video of a guy getting hit on the head and knees with a shovel
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 9, 2007
1,289 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of Escuelar de calor, a great rout...
Dr. Pazzo, that's great! Braxtron
From ...
Joined Mar 30, 2003
1,638 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
I'm Ron Burgundy? Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Apr 2, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
PRRose wrote:
I don't know much Italian, but I'm willing to bet that "Pazzo" (as in Dr. Aprile Pazzo) is Italian for "fool".

More or less: more madman than fool. April First pranks are known in Italy as "pesci d'aprile," literally "April's Fish." This April's Fool obviously comes from the CAMP USA guys.

Incidentally, back in the seventies, Mountain Magazine published an April's Fool article extolling the virtues of Mars chocolate bars as ice pro. The claim was that for cold enough temperatures, they were stronger than steel.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
72 points
Apr 4, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)
They're making AMA roadracing soft armor out of this stuff too now. Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Sep 13, 2006
1,168 points
Apr 13, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
April Fools Joke hahahahaha!!! Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points

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