hey all, i'm looking to buy a good pair of multipitch shoes and i'm wondering what people have found that has worked out for them. comfort takes precedence over performance (my feet get tender after a long day on the rock) though if i can get comfort AND performance that would be friggin sweet. money isn't an issue (no i'm not rich, i have a decent job but i still live like i'm in college) so i'd love to hear all suggestions!

Comfortable and stylish! Plus you will fit right in with the Tombstone locals.

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I would buy the $180 shoes at least four sizes too small (preferably synthetic) with a 45* downturned toe in the color gunmetal.








Anyhoo........ If you really need to ask this question, I'm sure you could have done a search first-- if not here, then over on rc.com where there are five billion shoe threads already in existence (not to mention gear reviews), some of which I'm sure were started sometime in the last six months by dudes we could group into your same anthropometric/socioeconomic/ethnocentric/politicalistic/Rorschach inkblot-interpreting categories....thus saving you needless time doing it yourself, since I can clearly tell by your posts that time is precious to you.

Comfortable ars tip loose shoes Jim!!!

i dont know what the rest of these fools are talking about, but i go with the mad rock phoenix, nice comfy all day shoe and only 65 or 70 bucks

wow! I read some of these cats replies to your posts. the cowboy boots...funny.Eyes of green, what up with your posts? the guy asks a valid question. have you looked through a gear guide lately the are so politically correct that you can't go off of what they say. the mags never rate shoes bad because they want to keep those advertising dollars rolling in.
Jon
if you see eyes of green out climbing make sure to steer clear of her elitist tude. by looking at her climbing resume I can tell she has a reason for the hostility.
shoes to look at mythos from sportiva. good shoe does everything well. also the nago by sportiva. has a similar last.

Jon - I second the Mythos recommendation; they're popular for a good reason and will let you climb hard all day, or you can loosen the laces a bit and just cruise. The most versatile shoe I've ever climbed in, and the workmanship is top notch. Have fun - I sure miss springtime in the west.

The La Sportiva tradmasters... Dumb name, a bit pricey, but damn they feel like fuzzy slippers (they have a fleece-like lining). They hold up very nicely too, I've been beating mine to death and they are still going strong.

Hey Jon
Read my review of thes shoes... they really are the best all around shoe I have worn yet. One nice thing is that they can be bought slightly bigger than traditional mocs... if you have ever worn those.
Sam
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/climbing_gear_reviews/gear_>>>>>

Agree on Mythos: BUT, do not downsize Mythos. You should fit Mythos for just comfortable snugness in the toe box. Start with your street shoe size and then maybe look at a half size down from that if you are feeling a bit sloppy. But if they hurt in the store, then they will become total slop on the rock.

If your feet are tender because you need more padding and reinforcement, then I'd second the Tradmasters. You will lose sensitivity, but for all around multi-pitch trad, you will find them a great balance between precision and padding/support. Great for crack climbs with significant foot and toe camming.

The guy lives in AZ...my tradmasters are HOT with that fleece liner deal in there. Hard to recommend.

Good call Rob D. they can get pretty toasty.

I have three diff. sizes of the same shoe (lasportiva Katanas.) Smallest for bouldering, a half size up for cragging, and a full size up from that for splitters and long routes.

I would look at what you allready have and like and get a larger size of the same shoe.

I think Not So Famous is trying to sandbag you. Size the Mythos as small as you can possibly fit your foot into otherwise you will be wearing double socks smearing like Goofy in a couple months.

Mythos rock for all day comfort as long as you are just freeclimbing. Been wearing them for years...wish I could afford to buy a pair.

Another vote for the Mythos -- on long multi-pitch, they're the shoes I can stand to be in all day. My Katanas are a good alternative to the Mythos, especially if I know I'll have some opportunities to take them off once in a while (in other words, belays on ledges rather than hanging belays).

As far as sizing of the Mythos, I keep hearing people talk about getting them small because of stretch, but that hasn't been my experience at all. I bought mine in a comfortable size and haven't seen any significant stretch that can't be compensated for by just lacing them tighter.

JL

Agree with NSFOD and Saxfiend. Mythos, street size.

I'd recommend the TradMaster. This shoe does feel nice and comfortable right out of the box and I've used them on long (18 pitch) climbs in The Black Canyon and had happy feet at the end of the day.

The Mythos is for sure my favorite shoe and I down size about 2-3 sizes 'cause my feet are EEE wide and stretch the heck out of the fit but what I've found over time is that what little torsional rigidity the Mythos has disappears quickly and the shoe becomes fatiguing to wear on routes longer than 6-8 pitches. The Tradmaster seems to hold up better in this regard and so is more comfortable. The TM works better on small edges as well.....Keep in mind the Tradmaster will stretch at least 1/2 a size or more immediately upon using them. You don't have to get them super tight but getting a very snug fit right away is a good thing.

Stretching sure is an issue with these leather shoes, but if your willing to invest in a couple pairs, here's what worked for me: buy a pair that's snug, maybe half a size down, see how much they stretch, and then buy your next pair accordingly. The looser pair make great alpine rock shoes (with socks) or for those long, moderate days, or climbing wide cracks in the desert, while you can use your more dialed pair for the harder/narrower stuff.

I also would go with the mythos. They are very comfy.

I love this site! I think this is the most usefull trad shoe thread I have seen. Only a couple of jokes and then some usefull info. You can't get that anywhere else.